tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9275709485603979772024-03-18T05:48:11.064-04:00Angraecums...A resource to help the hobbyist and the professional growers understand the Angraecum's individual culture. To grow and produce the highest quality flowers.Unknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger66125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927570948560397977.post-47563773627579082442018-09-08T10:38:00.000-04:002018-09-08T12:16:44.236-04:00NORTHEAST Programs Schedule<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<em>Dendrobium aggregatum</em></div>
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<strong>Sept. 11, 2018; Delaware Orchid Society (DOS); <em>"Unusual & Natural Mounts"</em></strong></div>
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<strong> set-up 7pm</strong></div>
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<strong> </strong> Emmanuel Presb. Church</div>
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1006 Wilson Rd</div>
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Wilmington, DE 19803</div>
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<em>Dendrobium unicum</em></div>
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<strong>Sept. 12, 2018; Southeastern Pennsylvania Orchid Society (SEPOS); <em>"Buy It, Grow It, Bloom It"</em></strong></div>
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<strong><em> </em>set-up 7pm</strong></div>
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<strong> </strong>1st United Methodist Church</div>
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865 Main St</div>
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Phoenixville, PA 19460</div>
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<em>Angraecum leonis</em></div>
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<strong>Sept. 13, 2018; North Jersey Orchid Society (NJOS); <em>"Angraecums"</em></strong></div>
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<strong><em> </em>set-up </strong>6pm</div>
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Hanover Manor</div>
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16 Eagle Rock Ave</div>
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East Hanover, NJ 07936</div>
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Looking forward to presenting my programs to the Delaware, Southeastern Pennsylvania and the North Jersey Orchid Societies. I enjoy sharing the experience and the knowledge I've gained over the twenty-five plus years of growing orchids. The biggest advantage speaking at the societies is making the numerous friends. </div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927570948560397977.post-21258599634086296172017-12-14T00:10:00.000-05:002017-12-14T00:11:42.187-05:00Mutant Angraecum Crestwood 'Tomorrow Star'<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Three years ago I obtained what I think is a novelty plant; an <em>Angraecum </em>Crestwood mutation. I was told that it has two spurs (nectaries). Several months later I obtained three more plants that were labeled as a mutation; but with three spurs. The initial plant has not yet bloomed and should have the following year. The second set of plants have developed inflorescence each year and did bloom in December of 2016.<br />
The flowers that did bloom never really opened completely (the image below are of flowers that were photographed at the January 2017 Fort Lauderdale Orchid Society Show); Plants and opened flowers in my personal collection were very similar to those at the show.<br />
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<em>Angraecum</em> Crestwood 'Tomorrow Star' (mutation) </div>
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While at the Fort Lauderdale Orchid Society's show, I did have the opportunity to speak to a few of the American Orchid Society's judges the morning that judging was taking place. My question to them was whether they would consider judging a flower or group of flowers that were considered mutations. The first response was that they would at least look at the flower. Another response was probably not. The last judge said they would look at it but that the name of the plant should be changed (an issue with the name will be addressed later in this post).<br />
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<em>Angraecum</em> Crestwood 'Party Girl' is the first and only mutant Angraecum orchid to receive an American Orchid Society (AOS) award. The award presented was a JC/AOS in February of 2016. A JC award is a Judges' Commendation; "Awarded to flowers or plants, individually or in groups, for a distinctive characteristic or aspect of historical or other importance which, in the opinion of the judges, is worthy of recognition. Judges' Commendations must record the specific values for which the award is given. Granted without scoring by an affirmative vote of at least 75 percent of the judging team assigned."<br />
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<em>Angraecum</em> Crestwood 'Party Girl'</div>
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Regarding the culture of this novelty plant; I follow the same protocol as if it were a normal <em>Angraecum</em> Crestwood. All of my plants are in either 6 - 8 inch baskets or pots (the type of pot that has numerous holes surrounding the entire pot). I use non-organic material. Charcoal and/or lava pieces that are about 1 - 1.5 inches in diameter. This medium allows for fast drainage, some air movement for the root system to breath ad ample room for the development of the roots. This mutation should grow year round as long as it is kept in a warm grow area as would the normal <em>Angcm</em>. Crestwood.</div>
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Because of the fast drainage, I water my plants daily; every morning as long as temperatures are above 75 degrees. When temperatures are above the upper 80s into the nineties, I do try to water a second time about two hours prior to sunset. Watering is backed off to every two to three days once evening temperature drop below 65 degrees. I water only the medium; it is not a good habit of letting water set in the leaf axels, especially during the extreme warmer months. That setting water can over heat the plant and cause stem rot. It is best to have the plant in an area that receives a constant amount of air flow.</div>
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The plants are kept in an area that receive a minimum of 3,500 - 5,000 foot candles of light. Considered Cattleya light to Vanda light. In other words, very bright light but not direct sunlight. This type of light will promote blooming while the watering will help the plant grow.</div>
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I use a systemic fungicide on all of my plants every thirty days. I will use Thyomil for three months then switch to Dythane 45 for a three months cycle before returning to the Thyomil. Physan 20 is always available in a spray bottle as a topical fungicide. Another chemical treatment used every seven to ten days is a balanced fertilizer such as 20-20-20 (Jacks). I do not use any form of bloom booster.</div>
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<em>Angraecum</em> Crestwood 'Tomorrow Star' (mutation)</div>
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While doing research regarding the origin (it is speculated that its origin is from Taiwan) of this cloned mutation; I found it referred to as peloric. When an orchid is considered peloric, its petals are mimicking the lip. The illusion is that there are three lips. The two additional lips are somehow part of the petals. </div>
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Upon close examination, you can clearly see that there is only one lip and that the two additional spurs/nectaries are formed in the upper left and upper right of the actual resupinate lip. The spurs and the lip are not connected to either of the petals. The petals develop as they would in a non-mutated flower.</div>
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<em>Angraecum</em> Crestwood 'Tomorrow Star' (backside of the flower)</div>
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Over the last three or four years this mutation has become readily more available. Several growers here in the states will occasionally obtain some from the growers from Taiwan. All of my plants were obtained from one of those Taiwanese growers. It will range in price from $20 to as much as $50, depending on the size and whether it is ready to bloom. If grown properly, it can be an unusual addition to any collection and is definitely a conversation piece.</div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927570948560397977.post-25879215713664853052017-09-15T18:21:00.001-04:002017-09-15T18:21:31.792-04:00Hurricane Irma's Impact<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Hurricane Irma made it's way through the Caribbean and up the Florida peninsula this past week and pretty much destroyed everything in it's path. The Caribbean islands took much of the force with the hurricane being a CAT 5 storm. So many people LOST EVERYTHING and will probably struggle for months if not years to come through. Some may never reach the normalcy that they experienced prior to the storm.<br />
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Below is a link to the Hand-in-Hand Benefit; an organization that is collecting monies to try and help those that lost. All monies collected are going to hurricane relief!</div>
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I want to let the three societies that had to postpone my presentations that I will be working on new dates and that I will eventually make it to your meetings! The schedule which appears on the Angraecum's blog will hold the PPD (postponed date until a new date has been confirmed). Once the new date is confirmed; it will appear on the schedule and the old date removed. The societies are Ft. Pierce OS, Central Florida OS (Orlando) and the OS of the Palm Beaches. Looking forward to seeing all of you soon. In the mean-time, stay safe and ALWAYS offer a helping hand to those still trying to get out from under the mess!</div>
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<a href="https://handinhand2017.com/">https://handinhand2017.com/</a></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927570948560397977.post-70533139981838799162016-09-11T19:02:00.002-04:002016-09-11T19:06:24.926-04:00First Time Bloomers (Part 3)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
It has been a while since I've posted anything... this will be the start of several articles and groups of Angraecoid images that have been waiting in the wings. I'll give a brief description of the culture used for each plant shown here and the information regarding the species' natural habitats.<br />
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<i>Angraecum</i> Emily Upside Down, the hybrid was created by Lehua Orchids and registered in 2013. The parentage is <i>Angcm</i>. Lemforde White Beauty (<i>Angcm. magdalenae</i> X <i>Angcm. sesquipedale</i>) X <i>Angcm. superbum</i>. This image was captured in August, 2016 and shows the influence of <i>Angcm. superbum</i> (non-resupinated flower) and the effect it has on <i>Angcm</i>. Lemforde White Beauty (resupinated flower); this hybrid escapes the Veitchii effect (flowers opening parallel to the ground). You can see the light green color in the sepals and the petals, a common trait seen in hybrids when various <i>eburneums</i> are used in the cross. Another trait is that the spur/nectary is pointing up rather than hanging down. The inflorescence starts erect but will usually arc somewhat due to the weight of the flowers which develop at the last two thirds of the spike.</div>
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I grow these plants in six inch (15cm) terra-cota pots that are riddled with one inch (2.5cm) holes around the entire pot (fast drainage and allows more air around the root system). Watered daily as long as the temps are at 80 degrees F or higher. Water is backed off to every two to three days once temps drop below 80 degrees F. A combination of medium red lava rock, hydroton and charcoal is used as the medium. The plants receive between 3,500 to 4,500 FC of light year round.<br />
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<i>Angraecum eichlerianum</i> is a species from the central west coast (Nigeria) south to Angola. In the wild it can grow to near 200 inches (508cm) in dense, undisturbed forests. Inflorescence form at the leaf axils and range 4 - 8 inches (10-20cm) and produce 1 to 4 flowers that are long lasting. As the plant grows in height, it produces ariel roots. This flower developed on a seedling barely 6 inches (15cm) high and is still in a small plastic pot with a seedling medium. It will eventually be mounted to a tree fern totem about 12 - 18 inches high (30-45cm).<br />
As long as I keep this seedling in the small plastic pot, I will keep it in medium shade. Once mounted to the totem (plant size about 8 - 9 inches [20-23cm]), I will gradually introduce it to a brighter light, from 1200FC to 2500FC; but no direct sunlight! While in the small pot, I water this plant once every 2 days. I have this plant in an area that gets a good amount of air movement.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">Habitat information was obtained from orchidculture.com </span><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zTV6Rmi1S5o/V9RJ2yQr9kI/AAAAAAAACGY/zbGV1jhOc5gB8kImBF3nNjWTVwIPfPMaACLcB/s1600/Microcoelia%2Bstolzii%2Bcombo%2B01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zTV6Rmi1S5o/V9RJ2yQr9kI/AAAAAAAACGY/zbGV1jhOc5gB8kImBF3nNjWTVwIPfPMaACLcB/s640/Microcoelia%2Bstolzii%2Bcombo%2B01.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="color: blue;"> <i><span style="color: black;">Microcoelia stolzii, </span></i><span style="color: black;">found throughout the south eastern coast into the south central sections of Africa. <i>Mic. stolzii</i> grows on twigs and branches in evergreen forests and woodlands within a high rainfall area. It is one of the few Angraecoids that will tolerate a temperature range form cool to hot. Night time differences of over 30 degrees F, 55 - 88F (13-31C).</span></span><br />
<span style="color: blue;"><span style="color: black;">I grow <i>Mic. stolzii</i> in shade that receives spackled light throughout the day. The plant is never exposed to direct sunlight for more than fifteen minutes at a time. With temperatures above 90 degrees F (32C), the plant is watered early morning and then again late afternoon. Reversed osmosis water is used each time (I have several plants that I water with RO, I get it from the super market). I do not use any fertilizer or fungicide; the plant does well with the regiment I use. Be sure to keep the plant in an area with air movement. </span><i><span style="color: black;"> </span></i><span style="color: black;"> It blooms for me in early May through June.</span><i><span style="color: black;"> </span></i></span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">Habitat information was obtained from orchidspecies.com<i><span style="color: black;"> </span></i></span><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oHGHGSGwCHQ/V9R5TKmSDaI/AAAAAAAACG4/s00L7yy0NKkmyzCtLhATc9dF61KN1ZRPwCLcB/s1600/Angcm%2BScottish%2BLion%2B01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="354" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oHGHGSGwCHQ/V9R5TKmSDaI/AAAAAAAACG4/s00L7yy0NKkmyzCtLhATc9dF61KN1ZRPwCLcB/s640/Angcm%2BScottish%2BLion%2B01.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="color: blue;"><i><span style="color: black;">Angraecum </span></i><span style="color: black;">Scottish Lion is another hybrid created by Lehua Orchids<i>, </i>registered in 2014<i>. </i>The full parentage is <i>Angcm</i>. White Lioness (<i>Angcm</i>. <i>leonis</i> x <i>Angcm</i>. Lemforde White Beauty [<i>Angcm</i>. <i>magdalenae</i> x <i>Angcm. sesquipedale</i>]) X <i>Angcm. scottianum</i>. </span></span><br />
<span style="color: blue;"><span style="color: black;">Based upon the four various species (<i>Angcm's magdalenae, sesquipedale, leonis and scottianum</i>) which where used in eventually creating this hybrid, <i>Angcm</i>. Scottish Lion requires a bright diffused light (no direct sun light). The plants that I have are in an area which receives about 3,800 FC of light. All but one of the species will tolerate temperatures into the high 80s (about 31C). The plants that are in 4 - 5 inch (20-12cm) clay pots are watered every other day. Any that are mounted should be watered every day and twice if temperatures go above 90 degrees F (32C). The flower of <i>Angcm</i>. Scottish Lion takes on it's own characteristics, although you should see some influence from it's various parents. The most noticeable flower trait is the fact that it has lost most of it's size through hybridizing. The largest parent, <i>Angcm. sesquipedale</i> can have a horizontal natural spread in access of 19.6 cm. The flower in the image above had a natural spread of 6.8 cm. My plants are fertilized every 7 - 10 days and also in an area that has a consistent amount of air movement. </span></span></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com20tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927570948560397977.post-37446379488964275622016-03-06T02:01:00.000-05:002016-03-06T02:01:00.625-05:00Angraecum magdalenae Shows Herself !<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sD6IVurTlC4/VnouEEih-2I/AAAAAAAACCA/mNlJbE1_41E/s1600/Angraecum%2Bmagdalenae%2B150%2BCPYR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="544" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sD6IVurTlC4/VnouEEih-2I/AAAAAAAACCA/mNlJbE1_41E/s640/Angraecum%2Bmagdalenae%2B150%2BCPYR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Angraecum magdalenae</i> growing in it's natural habitat.</div>
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Often referred to as the "Queen of the Angraecums"; <i>Angraecum magdalenae</i> can be a phenomenal plant to show off when in full bloom. Whether a first time bloomer with a single flower or a group of blooms appearing in a small colony, <i>Angcm. magdalenae</i> is a showy orchid and well worth adding to any collection. BUT (and this can be a rather big BUT), you can find it extremely difficult to grow let alone bloom in areas that are warm to hot.<br />
<i>Angcm. magdalenae's</i> natural habitat is at an altitude of 5,600 - 6,550 feet (1,700-2,000 meters) in the mountain range along the east coast of Madagascar. At that altitude, the plant is growing in an intermediate to cool growing climate and can also withstand light frost during the cooler months. It grows in pockets of decaying leaf and other plant material between rock and is exposed to very bright light but slightly shaded in the warmer months (average high temperature is about 75 degrees F (24 degrees C). It is exposed to direct sunlight during the winter months with high temperatures averaging about 68 degrees F (20 degrees C). Low temperatures during the drier winter months averages about 45 degrees F (7 degrees C). During nearly a five month winter period, rain is barely a half an inch (1.2 cm) per month. It does get some mist; keeping the plant hydrated.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MxYO42u3WS4/VqGp7wrFc8I/AAAAAAAACDg/8PfjA1wIMxU/s1600/Angcm%2Bmagdalenae%2B02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MxYO42u3WS4/VqGp7wrFc8I/AAAAAAAACDg/8PfjA1wIMxU/s640/Angcm%2Bmagdalenae%2B02.jpg" width="536" /></a></div>
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<i>Angcm. magdalenae</i> flower bud ten days prior to opening.</div>
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My ultimate goal growing orchids and specializing in Angraecums was (past tense) to grow and bloom the "Queen of the Angraecums". As I stated above, the plant prefers a cooler climate. I have grown numerous <i>Angcm. magdalenae</i> over the last sixteen plus years to no avail. South Florida's weather cycle being much to HOT for the plant. </div>
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About a year and a half ago (2014), Doctor Chris Johnson from the University of Utah wrote a guest article regarding watering his Angraecums semi-hydroponically. After several tests (experiments) he was very successful. At about the same time, I was talking to Ken and Judy Russ about growing Paphiopedilums; a genus that I have had problems growing. Ken makes a special pot that they grow their Paphs in; a somewhat thicker pot, with a slightly domed bottom and drainage holes anywhere from an inch (2.5cm) to two inches (5cm) from the bottom of the pot (the holes being higher prevents all of the water from draining out). The water that remains in the pot slowly leeches out through the clay pot walls. This slow leeching process keeps the pot cooler as well as the root system within.</div>
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In late winter of this same year I took the information that I had learned and potted <i>Angcm. magdalenae</i> in about a six inch (15cm) clay Paph pot. Little did anyone know that this past year (2015) would end up being one of
the hottest years in recorded history; especially here in South Florida. Not very conducive for the intermediate to cool growing plant.<br />
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<img border="0" height="394" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PCCtYHzXzgs/VtvKkZzeb2I/AAAAAAAACDw/88pQnzaHxcg/s640/combo%2B01.jpg" width="640" /></div>
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A normal image of <i>Angcm. magdalenae</i> with a comparison image from a FLIR thermal camera.</div>
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Color table for the thermal image using a Ryobi TEK4 surface reading thermometer are as follows; blue/purple measured between 75.3 - 77.1 degrees Fahrenheit (24-25 degrees C); green measured at 78.8 degrees F (26 C); yellow started at 80.5 F (27 C) going into the deep red at 86.9 F (30.5 C). Air temperature around the plant in about 4,000 Foot-candles of light was measured at 84.2 F (29 C) using an outdoor thermometer. The core temperature of the potting material was 74.5 F (23.6 C) using an internal cooking thermometer inserted 2/3 into the middle of the pot.</div>
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The average monthly humidity was very similar to that of the plant's natural habitat. That may be due to the lack of rain in the area I grow. </div>
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Please note that this is the first test I've used to bloom Angcm. magdalenae successfully. I am going to plant four more identical to this and hope to post the results at the end of the year. I used the pollen from this bloom and pollinated the flower of <i>Angcm</i>. Longidale (this project will be posted after the seed pod is sent to the lab for flasking).</div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YBCMbJG13S8/VtvVRTN2v-I/AAAAAAAACEA/8fIVm_7a-EM/s1600/92%2BAngraecum%2Bmagdalenae%2B03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YBCMbJG13S8/VtvVRTN2v-I/AAAAAAAACEA/8fIVm_7a-EM/s640/92%2BAngraecum%2Bmagdalenae%2B03.jpg" width="590" /></a></div>
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<i>Angraecum magdalenae</i></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927570948560397977.post-18965247204010697172015-12-27T21:15:00.000-05:002015-12-27T21:15:28.711-05:00Blooming Traits of Angraecum Longidale<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3hCdqZzMJ_4/Vmpmohn1isI/AAAAAAAACAc/rRCosOatzg4/s1600/AngcmLongidale%2BCPYR%2B28.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3hCdqZzMJ_4/Vmpmohn1isI/AAAAAAAACAc/rRCosOatzg4/s640/AngcmLongidale%2BCPYR%2B28.jpg" width="606" /></a></div>
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<i>Angraecum</i> Longidale</div>
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Although <i>Angraecum</i> Longidale was just registered in March of 2015, the hybrid was created in 1978 by Fred Hillerman. The reason for the delay was due to the fact that at the time of it's creation, one of the parents was considered a variation of a sub-species; the problem was that the sub-species itself was also used to create a hybrid. The unfortunate outcome was that both hybrids were labeled with the same name (<i>Angraecum</i> Memoria Mark Aldridge, registered in 1993 by C. Timm, seed parent is <i>Angcm. sesquipedale</i> X pollen parent is <i>Angcm. superbum</i>); each hybrid has their own distinctive appearance. When the Royal Horticulture Society (RHS) did recognize each sub-species and the variations as individual species, it was time to register <i>Angcm</i>. Longidale (<i>Angcm</i>. <i>sesquipedale</i> X <i>Angcm. longicalcar</i>), the hybrid name being the wish of Fred Hillerman when the cross was created. The name consisting parts of each parent's grex.<br />
This article deals solely with the development of the bud and of the flower. The culture for <i>Angraecum</i> Longidale is available in the original article posted in the blog back in March, 2015.<br />
The initial concern regarding the creation of <i>Angraecum</i> Longidale was whether it would suffer from the Veitchii effect; commonly referred to as "twisty flower". When a hybrid is created using a plant that has a flower with a resupinated lip (lip is upright and erect, considered superior, <i>Angraecum longicalcar</i>) with a plant that has a flower with a non-resupinated lip (lip is down and slightly out, considered inferior, <i>Angraecum sesquipedale</i>) it is not unusual that the hybrid's flower will face down or parallel to the ground rather than a full frontal face of the flower (much like <i>Angraecum</i> Veitchii, examples of this effect can be seen in the article posted here in the blog in September, 2012).<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mnvYmTLmHlY/VnDxu15jp6I/AAAAAAAACAo/UnZ9dxI_TYE/s1600/AngcmLongidale%2B19.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="370" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mnvYmTLmHlY/VnDxu15jp6I/AAAAAAAACAo/UnZ9dxI_TYE/s640/AngcmLongidale%2B19.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The diagram above shows the position of six plants that have been set in one direction<br />
for the last twelve months.</div>
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The growth pattern of the inflorescence in the six plants all grew pointing north. The position of the sun in September (the time the inflorescence started to develop) was already starting to be in the southern sky. Whether that had anything to do with the development of the inflorescence remains to be seen. Further study would need to be done to come to any hard conclusion.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZjJz4bCt320/VnJImKvjFaI/AAAAAAAACA4/4ABhRHx4N7s/s1600/combo%2B03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="582" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZjJz4bCt320/VnJImKvjFaI/AAAAAAAACA4/4ABhRHx4N7s/s640/combo%2B03.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Developing buds of <i>Angraecum</i> Longidale</div>
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Once the buds of <i>Angcm</i>. Longidale have fully developed, they break free of the sheaths that protect them to an extent. As the the bud becomes larger, the pedicel, the nectary/spur and the bud itself will grow quickly. They grow close to a perpendicular position to the inflorescence 9with the bud tips facing slightly towards the end of the inflorescence). Within twelve to twenty days, the buds will completely open to full blooming size. Several other events do take place about three to five days of the bloom being open.</div>
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The six images above show the bud positions and how they change direction as they get ready</div>
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to open completely.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D1vZB-TfZvE/VnJZAPg_miI/AAAAAAAACBk/wc0vU4vIdeE/s1600/AngcmLongidale%2B12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="390" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D1vZB-TfZvE/VnJZAPg_miI/AAAAAAAACBk/wc0vU4vIdeE/s640/AngcmLongidale%2B12.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The position of these buds was photographed from above. </div>
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If the bud on the left were to bloom as is, it would adopt the natural characteristic of the seed parent, <i>Angcm. sesquipedale</i>; having a non-resupinated lip. This bud is pointing slightly towards the tip of the inflorescence. Several days prior to the bud opening, the pedicel will start to twist. Shortly after the twisting motion starts, it will also start to curl nearer the bud. The combination of twisting and curling will eventually show the underside which is actually the white lip. This characteristic is a natural trait of the pollen parent, <i>Angcm. longicalcar</i>; having a resupinated lip. The bud is also changing direction as it gets closer to opening (as can be seen in the various images in this article). </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1BF2gZUOykk/VnJf8VyvExI/AAAAAAAACBw/Wg1m1bsSiR8/s1600/AngcmLongidale%2B14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="418" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1BF2gZUOykk/VnJf8VyvExI/AAAAAAAACBw/Wg1m1bsSiR8/s640/AngcmLongidale%2B14.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This image was photographed from the side to show a slight profile.</div>
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When the twisting and curling motion has reached a curl of about one hundred eighty degrees, The bud is about to open. The twisting and curling motion has also turned the bud towards the direction of the plant; some flowers do face slightly out but still face the plant to some point.<br />
Through observation over a five week period while the plants were in full flower, measurements were taken of flowers that had opened on first time blooming plants as well as plants that were blooming for a second time. The measurements used were in accordance with the American Orchid Society's judging standard (section 7.5.2 Actual Measurements, Judges Handbook). Visually the flowers appeared larger on the plants that were blooming a second year in a row than the flowers on plants blooming for the first time.<br />
<i> Angraecum</i> Longidale is an easy orchid hybrid to grow and would make a great addition to any collection; keeping in mind that you'll need ample space for a large showy Angraecum. First signs of an inflorescence developing can be as early as July into mid-September with the flowers appearing in mid-October to early December. </div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927570948560397977.post-73477161693678796892015-11-05T21:52:00.000-05:002015-11-06T00:02:29.072-05:00Angraecum sesquipedale STUDY<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dPg0b7xL00k/VjwRIA-3ilI/AAAAAAAAB74/psZQjs9l37c/s1600/A_sesquipidaleTOMs08d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dPg0b7xL00k/VjwRIA-3ilI/AAAAAAAAB74/psZQjs9l37c/s640/A_sesquipidaleTOMs08d.jpg" width="518" /></a></div>
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<b><i>Angraecum sesquipedale</i></b> flower</div>
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<b> I am currently conducting a study regarding the <i>Angcm. sesquipedale</i> flower. I am looking for anyone that is growing the plant and is expecting it to flower over the next two to three months. I am specifically looking for a series of photographic images of the flower from the day it first starts to open and a follow through for a minimum of three consecutive days. Any image(s) that I do use in the study will receive full photo credit. </b></div>
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<b> The flower should be photographed in a full frontal format and a full profile format each consecutive day for a minimum of three days (up to five consecutive days if possible). Shooting the spur/nectary is not necessary. Using a black material would be most beneficial.</b></div>
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<b> Please contact me via email as well as send your images and contact information to tkangcm@live.com . Your contribution is very much appreciated. Looking forward to your help.</b></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927570948560397977.post-59011904373334460192015-10-05T22:38:00.001-04:002015-10-05T22:38:49.977-04:00Aerangis Elro<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8_UccMnjLL0/VhLJH-V5leI/AAAAAAAAB1g/ZNKlThMtAYU/s1600/46%2BAerangis%2BElro%2B01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="418" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8_UccMnjLL0/VhLJH-V5leI/AAAAAAAAB1g/ZNKlThMtAYU/s640/46%2BAerangis%2BElro%2B01.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8_UccMnjLL0/VhLJH-V5leI/AAAAAAAAB1g/ZNKlThMtAYU/s1600/46%2BAerangis%2BElro%2B01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black;"><i>Aerangis</i> Elro</span></a></div>
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<span style="color: black;"> Almost a year and a half prior to HQ Orchids registering <i>Angraecum</i> Shooting Star (<i>Angcm. florulentum</i> X <i>Angcm. eburneum</i> ssp. <i>xerophilum</i>) [posted March 2012], they registered <i>Aerangis</i> Elro (<i>Aergs. ellisii </i>X <i>Aergs. modesta</i>) another Angraecoid hybrid. <i>Aergs. ellisii</i> (seed parent) does grow into a rather large plant, up to about 30 inches (70cm) tall with leaves nearly 10 x 2 inches (25x5cm) in length and width. <i>Aergs. modesta</i> (pollen parent) is actually a much smaller plant. Stem height barely reaching 6 inches (15cm) with leaves no larger than 6 x 1.5 inches (15x4cm) in length and width. <i>Aergs</i>. Elro (the offspring) produces plants that range between its parents.</span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"> As I have stated in many of the posts in this blog, growing orchids is one variable after another. What works for one may not work for another, do your research and use someone elses culture information as a starting point for your own. I have asked two contributors of past articles published in the Angraecums blog to submit an image or two along with the data regarding their <i>Aergs</i>. Elro's culture. You will see three different variables yet all successful in blooming <i>Aerangis</i> Elro.</span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PBi3PS_9hWA/VhLiTk6LPFI/AAAAAAAAB1s/kTWLon8GK3o/s1600/combo%2B1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="476" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PBi3PS_9hWA/VhLiTk6LPFI/AAAAAAAAB1s/kTWLon8GK3o/s640/combo%2B1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: black;"> <i>Aerangis </i>Elro, view of entire plant, full frontal flower and three-quarter profile of flowers.</span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"> Sarah Waddoups, the founder of the Angraecoid Alliance wrote an article back in February of 2012 introducing her organization. The alliance concentrates on in-situ and ex-situ conservation. She is also a phenomenal grower with an emphasis on various Angraecoids. She is presently growing two <i>Aerangis</i> Elro, images of one them shown above. </span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"> She grows both of her plants in wood baskets. The first is a 12 inch (30cm) shallow basket in which she has placed a small amount of moss tucked into it. "It is hardly full of moss". The second is a 6 inch (15cm) wood Vanda basket in which she has placed some large bark chunks and coconut coir. She placed both plants into the wood baskets during the spring so that they wood readily grow throughout the summer. Both plants attached securely within a few months. She found that the baskets allow the plants to become somewhat pendant which allows the inflorescence to hang down for a nice presentation of the flowers.</span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"> The plants are placed in the same area that the vandas and large angraecums grow. they are protected from the late afternoon sun by being in the shadows of the larger plants. The small green house where the plants are grown is opened during the warm summer months and the plants watered every day. Winter can bring temperatures into the teens and single digits. The cold weather temperature is maintained at a constant 58 degrees F (14.5 C) while the greenhouse is all closed up. The plants are watered sparingly throughout the winter. The plants have done very well over the last couple of years being in their location and do bloom regularly in early summer.</span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bbofR38NjL0/VhMRURluCKI/AAAAAAAAB18/Qn-e18Cmv_E/s1600/combo%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="470" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bbofR38NjL0/VhMRURluCKI/AAAAAAAAB18/Qn-e18Cmv_E/s640/combo%2B2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><i>Aerangis</i> Elro being grown semi-hydroponically, bottom half of an inflorescence in bloom.</span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"> Dr. Chris Johnson, a professor at the University of Utah travels extensively. It was important to find a way to keep his collection alive while he was on the road. After doing research and experimenting with a couple of plants, he started using semi-hydroponics to care for his collection. <i>Aergs.</i> Elro has grown very well using this technique.</span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"> The plant is in a 6 inch (15cm) plastic pot. Holes are drilled about 1 - 1.5 inches (3-4cm) from the bottom of the pot (this allows water to sit in the bottom of the pot). The summer temperatures in his greenhouse range 60 - 85 degrees F (16-29.5 C) while winter temperatures range 55 - 75 degrees F (13-24 C). The plants are watered every other day during the summer and cut back during the colder months to every three to four days. The water running through the greenhouse is reverse osmosis water and the fertilizer (MSU) is designed for RO water. He uses a kelp supplement as well as probiotics.</span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"> The amount of light varies depending on the seasonal position of the sun. It is considered a medium bright light. </span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ltkTe8r01Ds/VhMbY004gVI/AAAAAAAAB2M/3Z6A1_Fz5ic/s1600/toms%2Bcombo%2B3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="226" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ltkTe8r01Ds/VhMbY004gVI/AAAAAAAAB2M/3Z6A1_Fz5ic/s640/toms%2Bcombo%2B3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: black;"> <i>Aerangis</i> Elro, frontal close-up, partial inflorescence and three-quarter profile.</span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"> Sarah and Chris are growing their <i>Aergs</i>. Elro in controlled greenhouses in two different areas of the United States that have very distinctive seasons. I am growing in a very sub-tropical/tropical area of South Florida. This past summer started in mid spring (April) and is just now looking to milder temperatures (October). Growing in an open air arbor has its advantages; such as steady air movement and Mother Nature's elixir, rain!</span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"> Two of the plants are in 6 inch (15cm) teak wood baskets. There is a non-organic medium (charcoal, clay pellets and lava rock) in each of the two baskets. Allowing for fast drainage, air movement and ample room for the root system to develop. The third plant is in a 6 inch (15cm) clay pot; one with numerous 1 inch (2.75cm) holes all the way around it (allowing for the same attributes as the wood baskets). </span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"> With air temperatures being above 90 degrees F (32 C) for nearly six months, the plants have been watered every morning and several times a week in late afternoons. With milder temperatures coming soon, watering will be cut back to every other day. If they drop below 65 degrees F (18 C), watering will be cut back to every third day.</span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"> The two plants in wood baskets receive about two and a half hours of early morning sunlight. After that point, they receive about 3,000 foot-candles (diffused light) for the remainder of the day. The third plant (in the clay pot) receives about 2,500 foot-candles all day. All three plants have bloomed in their respective areas.</span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"> One thing that I have noticed with Aergs. Elro, is the length of time that an inflorescence starts until the time the buds actually open. All three of my plants have taken in excess of twelve months, tow of them nearly fourteen months to being in full bloom. I grow and have bloomed both of the parents; <i>Aergs. ellisii </i>(about ten months)<i> </i>and <i>Aergs. modesta </i>(about six months), neither of them taking as long as their offspring.</span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"> Three different growers from three different areas of the country. All three growing <i>Aerangis</i> Elro using various orchid cultures. Yet the plants all bloom late spring into early summer. Use this information as starting points for your plants. If you have any questions, never hesitate to ask! </span></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927570948560397977.post-7399521367251497652015-08-09T23:13:00.000-04:002015-08-09T23:13:24.143-04:00Angraecum Symposium 2017 ?<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FHdM8TcgFLI/VcgWG1WfWHI/AAAAAAAABuQ/FGvBCNhnqH8/s1600/_10ANGCMcrestwood01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FHdM8TcgFLI/VcgWG1WfWHI/AAAAAAAABuQ/FGvBCNhnqH8/s640/_10ANGCMcrestwood01.jpg" width="604" /></a></div>
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<i>Angraecum</i> Crestwood</div>
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<h3 class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
Sarah Waddoups, founder of the Angraecoid Alliance and Tom
Kuligowski, creator of the Angraecums blog are currently looking into the
possibility of putting together an Angraecoid Symposium.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This symposium would take place sometime
between early 2017 and late spring of 2017.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Topics being discussed as possible subjects are “In-situ/Ex-situ
Conservation”, “Hybridizing Angraecoids”, “Climate and Culture”,
“Identification and Education” and “History Of”.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They are looking for their reader’s opinions,
whether the readers would attend and ideas for other subjects to be covered.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Locations have been briefly discussed as well
as possible speakers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Please comment
here and let them know your thoughts regarding an Angraecoid Symposium.</h3>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927570948560397977.post-77659726760954205682015-07-29T01:21:00.001-04:002015-07-29T01:21:25.558-04:00Angellea Great Scott (Angraecum scottianum X Jumellea comorensis)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TYpvR2wIWFc/VZST5Y4X5uI/AAAAAAAABsE/qkrG2pr7cxM/s1600/scottianum%2BX%2Bcomorensis%2Bw%2Bnames.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TYpvR2wIWFc/VZST5Y4X5uI/AAAAAAAABsE/qkrG2pr7cxM/s640/scottianum%2BX%2Bcomorensis%2Bw%2Bnames.jpg" width="572" /> </a></div>
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Pictured above are the parents of <i>Angellea</i> Great Scott.</div>
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<i>Angraecum scottianum</i> crossed with <i>Jumellea comorensis</i> should prove to be an unusual hybrid when it blooms. Hybridizing different genera has created very unique offspring. There are numerous reasons that a grower would have for creating a specific cross such as changing plant size, flower color and/or flower shape and the number of flowers that the plant may produce. Final results though would not be seen until the offspring bloomed for the first time. Keep in mind that not all of the offspring will look identical. Some will look like the seed parent, some being similar to the pollen parent and yet others will be totally different adopting traits from both parents. This issue is dealt with in the post "The Variations Of <i>Angraecum</i> Lemforde White Beauty" published here in September, 2014.</div>
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<i>Angellea</i> Great Scott was created by Leon Glicenstein. I did get to ask him the reason for creating this specific hybrid. Throwing all reason aside; it was from pure curiosity. </div>
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This post is the second where I will follow the development of a small group of seedlings. I have successfully grown and have bloomed both parents. The culture used for the seedlings is based entirely on the parent's culture.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-teboqWKT9dA/VaxXDHR37wI/AAAAAAAABs4/UjAlvdCC1kQ/s1600/jum%2Bcombo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="384" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-teboqWKT9dA/VaxXDHR37wI/AAAAAAAABs4/UjAlvdCC1kQ/s640/jum%2Bcombo.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Jumellea comorensis</i> mounted to a cork slab. (pollen parent)</div>
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<i> Jum. comorensis</i> was featured in a post in May 2012, It is a fast growing Angraecoid that will branch and produce new plants at the base. In it's natural habitat, it grows on the rough bark of trees in bright light and in low light. My plants are watered twice a day throughout the warm months of the year, When temperatures drop to below eighty degrees (27C) watering is cut back to once a day; usually in the mornings.Watering is cut back to every two to three days when temperatures are at seventy degrees (22C) or below. Due to the amount of water the plant requires, be sure to be growing in an area with a steady amount of air movement. If excessive water is left on the leaves for to long a period, the plant becomes susceptible to fungus and the leaves will rot quickly. With the tropical and sub-tropical climate here is South Florida, <i>Jum. comorensis</i> doesn't have a dormant period.</div>
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Plant structure can reach a height of almost twelve inches (30cm) with roots about 2cm that flatten when attached to mounting material. It has the capability of becoming a specimen in just two or three years producing several singularly borne flowers from each stem. <i>Jumellea comorensis</i> will often become pendant like.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jHCQHne9QWM/VaxdlIHqDII/AAAAAAAABtI/hP48rNVj1dw/s1600/Angraecum%2Bscottianum.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jHCQHne9QWM/VaxdlIHqDII/AAAAAAAABtI/hP48rNVj1dw/s640/Angraecum%2Bscottianum.jpg" width="483" /></a></div>
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<i>Angraecum scottianum</i> is mounted to a 12" tree fern totem. (seed parent)</div>
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An article regarding <i>Angcm. scottianum</i> was posted in December 2012. I grow this Angraecoid mounted to tree fern material; usually a tree fern totem. According to material in the 1986 book written by Fred Hillerman, the plant should be drenched during the warm summer months. My mounted plants are watered twice a day (early mornings and late afternoons). Once the temperatures start to drop, watering is back off to once a day and eventually every other day during the mild winters.</div>
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The plants thrive with this much water. They grow upright but do become pendant with length. I let the top third of the plants drupe until after they have bloomed; tying them up slightly higher after blooming. Aerial roots do appear but not more than a third of the way up the plant. The climate here in South Florida seems to be very similar to that of plant's natural habitat; the main reason it seems to thrive here.</div>
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<i>Angraecum scottianum</i> grows well with very bright diffused light (about 3500 fc). I have also had several plants in lower light (2000 - 2500 fc). They don't seems to grow as quickly; but they have always bloomed. I have the larger specimens growing towards the top of the arbor where they are exposed to a constant air flow. New plants usually develop at the base of the plant and are slow in starting. Once the plant has become an older specimen, branching does occur.</div>
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<i>Angcm. scottianum</i> will grow between 8 - 15 inches tall (20-37cm). Leaves will measure 2.5 - 4 inches long (6.5-10cm) and are teret like (tubular in shape) . Flowering can take place anytime between late February into early November with the most productive time in June and July. It has been reported that up to eight flowers can appear on a single inflorescence although I have never seen more than six on any of my plants. Flowers have a rather large resupinated lip which is 1.7 inches wide (4.2cm). The sepals and petals are thin and pointed and reach a length of 1 inch (2.5cm). The spur/nectary is about 5 - 6 inches long (12-15cm). Flowers are fragrant during the dark hours.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-25i5clMRpW0/VbhdQgrapUI/AAAAAAAABtw/P33sjevYrrM/s1600/GREAT%2BSCOTT%2Bcombo%2B01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="276" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-25i5clMRpW0/VbhdQgrapUI/AAAAAAAABtw/P33sjevYrrM/s640/GREAT%2BSCOTT%2Bcombo%2B01.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Angellea</i> Great Scott seedlings mounted to cork, tree fern material and cypress slabs.</div>
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The seedlings have been mounted as each of the parents. During this very warm summer, they are watered twice a day and misted if late afternoon temperatures are still above 90 F (32 C). They are presently receiving 2500 - 3000 fc of light (diffused bright light). They hang from the upper area of the arbor where they also receive a constan air movement.</div>
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The plant structure of <i>Angellea</i> Great Scott is very similar to that of the pollen parent <i>Jumellea comorensis. </i>In the first two images of the seedlings, you can see the leaves are shaped in form and size to to the pollen parent. There does appear to be a slight variation in plant number three. The leaves are close to that of the seed parent; but nor fully teret.</div>
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<i> </i>It will be interesting to see how the seedlings develop and hopefully bloom. Leon seems to have created what should be a fantastic surprise!</div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927570948560397977.post-75754785664605685172015-04-29T23:07:00.001-04:002015-04-29T23:07:07.842-04:00Angraecum praestans<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
This post is centered around two <i>Angraecum praestans</i> seedlings. The majority of former posts in this blog dealt strictly with the culture of first time bloomers or established plants. I thought it would be helpful to those beginners in understanding and seeing the progression and development of an individual species in culture. I stress so often that how I do things should be looked at as a starting point. You should do research prior to attempting to grow a particular orchid in your climate and growing conditions. What works for one may not work for another.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WfqQc21N2Us/VTry2L6FUZI/AAAAAAAABoU/UhCa4Dyqw6I/s1600/Angcm%2Bpraestans%2B01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WfqQc21N2Us/VTry2L6FUZI/AAAAAAAABoU/UhCa4Dyqw6I/s1600/Angcm%2Bpraestans%2B01.jpg" height="428" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Angraecum praestans</i> seedlings <br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4DLIkF_LfmY/VT91KcVTTlI/AAAAAAAABpY/RjRejVRS0js/s1600/Angcm%2Bpraestans%2BSarahW%2B02%2Bblog2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4DLIkF_LfmY/VT91KcVTTlI/AAAAAAAABpY/RjRejVRS0js/s1600/Angcm%2Bpraestans%2BSarahW%2B02%2Bblog2.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
Natural habitat of <i>Angcm. praestans</i> is the western and northwestern areas of Madagascar. It is usually found growing as an epiphyte in dry woods. It has been found on cliffs and in smaller trees in sandy areas and in sand dunes.<br />
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I chose <i>Angcm. praestans</i> because of the similar growing conditions here in South Florida compared to that in Madagascar. Keep in mind that the seasons are reversed because of the different hemispheres; the northern hemisphere's rainy season is the southern hemisphere's dry period and vice-verse. There is a period during the cooler months here in South Florida that temperatures may drop below the natural habitats extreme low of 57 degrees F (14C); those days are numbered between 6 and 12 days. The plants would be protected by either covering them or moving them into a warmer area.</div>
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Once these plants reach a mature height, the stems will be close to 12 inches (30cm) tall. As all Angraecums, leaves form opposite each other the length of the stem. They are arched with a leathery substance; they will be between 10 - 12 inches (25-30cm) long. New plants develop at the base of the plant and can start while the plant is still a seedling (as seen in the image below).</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-G8QBzgYzMVQ/VTr7aCjQDKI/AAAAAAAABok/kQEYyCsihng/s1600/Angcm%2Bpraestans%2B04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-G8QBzgYzMVQ/VTr7aCjQDKI/AAAAAAAABok/kQEYyCsihng/s1600/Angcm%2Bpraestans%2B04.jpg" height="400" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Angcm. praestans</i> seedling with a new basal plant developing.</div>
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The seedlings were placed in terra cotta 3 inch (8cm) pots with numerous holes for faster drainage and for air movement. The material used for potting was a combination of medium sized charcoal and clay pellets (non-organic). <b>This medium allows for fast drainage, air movement and space for the thick roots to grow freely (roots are about .25 inches (6mm) thick).</b> When the plants eventually do mature in size, the present terra cotta pots will be cracked open carefully and set into larger pots with additional material being added around the broken pot and medium. As with any developing orchid, it is best to pot when the plant is actively growing; allowing the plant to establish itself quicker.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-a_Wv8i6-p8M/VUA1lWkvA6I/AAAAAAAABps/5S5ibOXBLt4/s1600/Angcm%2Bpraestans%2B05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-a_Wv8i6-p8M/VUA1lWkvA6I/AAAAAAAABps/5S5ibOXBLt4/s1600/Angcm%2Bpraestans%2B05.jpg" height="384" width="640" /></a></div>
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These seedlings will be grown in these pots 2 - 3 years before being placed in either larger pots or baskets.<br />
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In it's natural habitat, <i>Angcm. praestans</i> grows as an epiphyte in dry woodlands, large bushes in sand dunes and cliffs not far from the coast. It is neither a large showy plant or a compact one. As stated earlier, it's stem will barely be 12 inches (30cm) high. Mounted plants seem to grow slower yet excel when the root system is exposed to moisture for a longer period of time being in a pot. It is imperative that the roots be allowed to breath and dry out some; using the proper size medium and making sure the air movement is strong enough will be similar to the plants requirements from its habitat.</div>
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Rainfall here in the northern hemisphere closely matches the seasonal rain amounts in the southern hemisphere. I start watering the plants every other day in early to mid April and will often water everyday when temperatures hold over 90 degrees (32 degrees C). The rain fall amounts peak in July through September as well as the temperatures being high. Late September rain starts to dramatically drop until the following spring. Watering is cut back to every three day as well as fertilizing being cut back. (If using water from a city water line, you should flush the medium with rain water or RO water to clear most of the salts.) </div>
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The blooming period usually begins late winter; prior to the rainy season. A well grown plant can produce 2 - 3 inflorescence with each producing 3 - 5 flowers. Blooms can be up to 4 inches (10cm) wide by 3 1/2 inches (9cm) long. Sepals and petals are greenish to yellowish in color while the lip is always white. The nectary ranges in length from 3 1/2 inches (9cm) to 5 inches (13.3cm) long and are usually greenish in color.</div>
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The amount of light the seedlings receive should be less than a mature plant; about 2,000 foot candles. Once the seedlings have been established in the pots for about a year, they will be moved into bright light (no direct sunlight), about 3,500 foot candles. </div>
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I use a balanced fertilizer every week and change that to every 10 -14 days during the cooler months. These seedlings will be treated with two systemic fungicides every three to four weeks. Alternating the fungicides every three months.</div>
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I will update this post every 4 - 6 months to show the development of the seedlings. A very special thank you to Sarah Wadddoups of the Angraecoid Alliance and to Brenda Oviatt of Botanica Ltd. for the use of their photographic images.</div>
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<i>Angraecum praestans</i> bloom </div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927570948560397977.post-25796414061262480132015-04-22T23:23:00.000-04:002015-05-22T22:56:33.110-04:00The Ghost Orchid, Into the Slough<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I would like to introduce a new guest writer that submitted an article pertaining to <i>Dendrophylax lindenii</i>; commonly referred to as the "Ghost Orchid". I thank Wendy Mazuk for taking the time to write about her growing interest, obsession and or passion about one of the rarest orchids on earth. The image below is that of the rare "Ghost Orchid" which was taken in a greenhouse outside of Chicago, Illinois (not an easy task growing in culture). Four additional images have been added to the post courtesy of Wendy Mazuk. <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FMWs6uK0r1I/VThSDkyuwKI/AAAAAAAABnI/Oc1foqCFgqA/s1600/Dendrophylax%2Blindenii%2B01%2B2008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FMWs6uK0r1I/VThSDkyuwKI/AAAAAAAABnI/Oc1foqCFgqA/s1600/Dendrophylax%2Blindenii%2B01%2B2008.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<i> Dendrophylax lindenii</i> (the "Ghost Orchid)</div>
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<b>Into the Slough</b></h2>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3d9PHdId0Tc/VThUDURnjWI/AAAAAAAABnU/8i3ZZmbtpDY/s1600/Wendy%2Band%2BFlower.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3d9PHdId0Tc/VThUDURnjWI/AAAAAAAABnU/8i3ZZmbtpDY/s1600/Wendy%2Band%2BFlower.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>By Wendy Mazuk</b></div>
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My Adventure into the Florida sloughs began by reading the book "The Orchid Thief", by Susan Orlean. Growing up in Florida as a frequent visitor to the Everglades, I was always happy to learn more about Native Florida. Upon learning about this book, I chose it strictly by its name for a class project. As an active orchid grower I couldn't resist; the name caught my attention. It was one of the best books I have read and fast-tracked my interest to learn more about this wonderful orchid.</div>
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A slough is known as a slow moving, shallow river beneath a protected canopy of bald cypress trees, the water is warmer than normal in the winter and cooler in the summer.</div>
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My introduction to the Ghost Orchid began with a variety of research projects at Florida Gulf Coast University. In my findings i discovered that there had not been much research collected on the Ghost Orchid (<i>Dendrophylax lindenii</i>). So i set out to meet the head park biologist of Fakahatchee Strand Preserve State Park, Mike Owen. Excited to learn more I spent the majority of my summers out in the swamps. The Ghost Orchid is one of the rarest orchids in the world - found only in Cuba and the swamps of the Southwest Florida Everglades; but that's not the only fact that makes them so rare...<br />
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<i>Dendrophylax lindenii</i>, the leafless orchid plant with two flowers. Image courtesy of Wendy Mazuk.<br />
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In 1844 Jean Jules Linden saw this orchid for the first time in Cuba. Jean Jules Linden was a famous orchid hunter traveling around the world collecting orchids for royalty and for study. Later in the 1890's it was discovered in the Everglades of South Florida. In 1994 the Ghost Orchid's popularity was more noted by many orchid collectors ad dealers due to poachers being arrested for stealing the Ghost Orchid out of the South Florida swamps. John Laroche, who was made famous by the book "The Orchid Thief", as well as three Seminole Indians that were arrested for poaching the native Ghost Orchid. This caused a large controversy between environmentalists, orchid collectors and Native Americans. Native Americans are able to collect and use a variety of native and endangered species for their cultural traditions. The problem was that they were taking Laroche to the area where he would steal them to be cloned and sold for profit.<br />
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<i>Dendrophylax lindenii</i> images showing the nectary/spur as well as a flower bud. Image courtesy<br />
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It is believed that this orchid is a distant relative of the African and Indian Ocean genus Angraecum; it seems that orchid seed, blowing like dust, crossed the Atlantic at least once and successfully colonized and evolved in a new habitat.</div>
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There is only one known pollinator for this orchid, the giant sphinx moth <i>Cocythus antaeus</i>.Because of this limitation, there is a very low probability of pollination to enable reproduction during a brief 3 - 4 month period of blooming. Additionally, the Ghost Orchid doesn't always bloom every year - sometimes it skips a year or two. The giant sphinx moth has a very long proboscis (tongue-like straw). It is the only moth found in the same area as the Ghost Orchid that would be able to pollinate it. As the moth receives nectar from the orchid's very long nectar spur, it also receives the pollen attached to it; so when the moth visits the next orchid, the pollen is transferred and pollination should occur. Because of the low numbers found in Cuba and in South Florida, the short flowering time and only having one species for pollination, the Ghost Orchid incurs reduced opportunities for healthy continuation of its species.</div>
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<i>Dendrophylax lindenii</i></div>
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The Ghost Orchid is native to Cuba, South Florida swamps and also some surrounding islands in the Bahamas (the Bahamian variety is believed to be a different species). The current status of this orchid is protected by the state of Florida under Appendix 2, section 5B-40.0055, the regulated plant index. It is ridiculous to think people would steal a plant; but this is such a rare orchid that poachers continue to steal these very hard to find orchids, taking them from their native habitat. These orchids need to be protected so that they can be enjoyed in their natural habitat undisturbed.</div>
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To learn more about the Fakahatchee Strand Preserve State Park, click on the link below:</div>
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<a href="http://www.floridastateparks.org/park/Fakahatchee-Strand">Fakahatchee Strand</a> </div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927570948560397977.post-10490213609511444022015-03-27T02:09:00.000-04:002015-03-27T02:09:26.823-04:00Angraecum Longidale<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<i><b>[RE-WRITE: this post is a re-write/update replacing the "Angraecum </b></i><b>Memoria Mark Aldridge</b>"<i><b> post dated March 3, 2015. Some of the text has been copied to here for an explanation of the re-write. The Angcm. </b></i><b>Memoria Mark Aldridge</b><i><b> post has been deleted.]</b></i><br />
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The RHS (Royal Horticultural Society) lists the actual parents of <i>Angraecum</i> Memoria Mark Aldridge as follows. The seed parent is <i>Angcm. sesquipedale</i> and the pollen parent as <i>Angcm. superbum. Angcm. superbum</i> is a sub-species of <i>Angcm. eburneum</i>. The plants that I have obtained are tagged as such; but the parentage on the tag reads <i>Angcm. sesquipedale</i> X <i>Angcm. longicalcar</i>. This difference in parentage is the reason behind the re-write.<br />
The originator of the Angraecum hybrids was Fred Hillerman. He did not register either cross because at the time each pollen parent was classified in one name (<i>Angraecum eburneum</i> ssp <i>superbum</i> var. <i>longicalcar</i>). Only one could be registered and recognized so he decided not to register either. However, the hybrid with a parentage of <i>Angcm</i>. <i>sesquipedale</i> X <i>Angcm</i>. <i>superbum</i> was registered by Connie Timm with the RHS in late 1993 as <i>Angcm</i>. Memoria
Mark Aldridge. This name as been associated with both the <i>Angraecum superbum</i> version and the <i>Angraecum longicalcar</i> version. <br />
After seeing the blooms on the plants that I had obtained; I was able to compare them to the plant and the blooms that were awarded in 2000 at the Fort Lauderdale orchid show. The flowers from 2000 were Veitchii type blooms that suffered from "twisty flower", a common issue with some hybrid Angraecums that are crossed where one resupinate and the other non-resupinate. The flowers tend to open facing down with the nectary/spur pointing in just about any direction.<br />
In recent years, the RHS has started making certain sub-species and variations their own distinctive species. With this now in play, the hybrid created by crossing <i>Angcm. sesquipedale</i> and <i>Angcm. longicalcar</i> can be registered as a new hybrid. As of March 25, 2015, the RHS has officially registered this cross as <i>Angcm</i>. Longidale (a part of each parents name combined to create the hybrid name; the name that Fred Hillerman initially wanted to use when creating the hybrid in 1978).<br />
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Angraecum Longidale</div>
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<i>Angraecum</i> Longidale will be a large showy plant. It
can reach a height of nearly 48 inches (120cm) and be just as wide. New
plants can start developing at the base of the plant; sometimes as many
as three or four at about the time the plant blooms for the first
time. Keep in mind that this will vary with each plant. Because of the
size of this plant, it is best to pot it (terra cotta) or place in a
cedar/plastic basket (plastic usually is best, it will not break down
over time). The container should be large enough to accommodate the
plant as it becomes a specimen.<br />
The root system will be thick. They can be up to a quarter on an
inch (.5cm) and most form at the base of the plant. If undisturbed,
the length can be just about unlimited. Neither of the parents like the
root system messed with, the same goes with this hybrid. Using a
non-organic medium of large material is best. Chunks of red lava rock,
charcoal and large clay pellets (1 1/2 inch [4cm]) will give ample
drainage, plenty of air for the roots to breath and a good amount of
room for advancement of the root system. Both parents are considered
warm growing and enjoy a substantial amount of water from mid spring
into mid fall. If temperatures are above 90 degrees F (32 degrees C), I
water the plants every other day, other wise I will water every three
days. During the cool months, the watering is cut back to every four or
five days. Even though the watering gets cut back in cooler months;
the plant is actively growing.</div>
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Do not let water set in the leaf axils, it can cause the root system to rot. Fertilizer should be applied every 7 - 10 days and use of a systemic fungicide is encouraged every 30 days. Keep a topical fungicide on hand for use between the monthly treatments. </div>
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<em>Angraecum</em> Longidale with the twist in pedicle allowing the flower's lip to be<br />
non-resupinate and the nectary/spur to hang down.</div>
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<em>Angraecum</em> Longidale receives very bright
light but filtered. In early morning hours until about 11am, the plant
can take direct sunlight. When starting with a plant that is a year or two away from blooming, gradually introduce it to the brighter light. Seedlings should be given a medium light until they are about four inches (10.2cm). </div>
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<i><b> </b></i></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927570948560397977.post-41027192949172647012015-01-28T21:40:00.000-05:002015-02-13T07:44:24.613-05:00Angraecum erectum<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I usually don't write a post until a plant has bloomed at least once. I've made an exception with <i>Angraecum erectum</i> because of the potential difficulty growing and blooming this Angraecoid in the South Florida tropical climate. With our summer temperatures of mid eighties to the mid nineties starting in mid spring and running into mid autumn; I realized I was attempting to bloom an orchid that usually is exposed to our winter temperatures of 70 - 75 degrees (21-24C) as the high and 53 - 58 degrees (11.5-14.5C) as the low all year round rather than just two or three months.<br />
<i>Angraecum erectum</i> is found in a natural habitat at altitude of 4,250 feet (1,300m) and as high as 7,700 feet (2,350m). It is found extensively in Kenya, west to Uganda and south into Tanzania and Zambia. I have found it to grow very similar to that of <i>Oeoniella polystachys</i>; growing vertically up the side of tree trunks and very sturdy heavy brush. Once some height is gained, a series of aerial roots come from the stem and while the base roots do not develop as well. The main difference between the two plants is that <i>Angcm. erectum</i> will put roots out throughout the length of the entire plant; <i>Oeoniella polystachys</i> will only root from the older part of the stem and not above areas of the stem that have not produced inflorescence. The plant branches quite freely and will grow vertically most of the time as the main plant grows.<br />
The plant pictured below is presently 13 inches (33cm) tall and has four new branching plants with three towards the bottom and one near the top. This individual plant has gained 5 inches (12.8cm) in the last 13 months while the second has gained nearly 6 inches (15cm) in the same time period. <br />
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<i>Angraecum erectum</i> inflorescence forms opposite leaf axils. It is uncommon but possible to see two buds. </div>
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The plant above as well as a second plant mounted the same way receives 1200 - 1600 foot candles of light (medium shade) daily all year round. It is not exposed to any direct sunlight at all. In its natural habitat, <i>Angcm. erectum</i> has two dry seasons and two wet seasons; each season lasts roughly two to three months. Here in South Florida, the plant is watered every two to three days during the dry season (cooler winter days) and every morning during the wet season (mid March into late October).</div>
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I fertilize my <i>Angcm. erectum</i> every seven to ten days from late March into mid November and every two weeks in late fall to late winter. It has shown consistent growth in plant height and root development. I use a systemic fungicide every 4 - 5 weeks; alternating two variations every three or four months to prevent any issues with a resistance to fungus. </div>
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The color of <i>Angcm. erectum</i> can be a light yellow-green, greenish white or a subdued salmon color.<br />
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With the amount of positive growth over the last year or so, it is best to be overly cautious as I wait to see whether the buds fully develop and open properly. South Florida temperatures over the last couple of weeks have been in the low to upper 70s. One thing that can cause bud blast is heat and our temperatures are about to go into the low to mid 80s. I will post an update as soon as the buds open and will gladly share all of the images.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PeqfgNcjT5Q/VNegF713FQI/AAAAAAAABiM/S7V8s406uLo/s1600/Angcm%2Berectum%2B04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PeqfgNcjT5Q/VNegF713FQI/AAAAAAAABiM/S7V8s406uLo/s1600/Angcm%2Berectum%2B04.jpg" height="536" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i><b>[UPDATE: February 8, 2015... The above image was obtained 2 weeks after the initial </b></i><br />
<i><b>image </b></i><i><b>of the first bud was obtained. The images below were obtained the same day </b></i><br />
<i><b>as this one. The Angraecum erectum buds have started to open.]</b></i></div>
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<i><b>[UPDATE: February 8, 2015... The flowers of Angcm. erectum are not pristine white as </b></i><br />
<i><b>many other of the Angraecoids. As stated earlier, they can range from a yellowish green, </b></i><br />
<i><b>greenish </b></i><i><b>white or subdued salmon color. Thesse flowers are a very light yellowish </b></i><br />
<i><b>cream white.]</b></i></div>
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<i><b>[UPDATE: February 8, 2015... Angcm. erectum flowers are rather small compared to the</b></i><br />
<i><b>height of the plant itself. The horizontal spread of the flowers here is </b></i><br />
<i><b>1.9 cm (3/4 of an inch); </b></i><i><b>the vertical spread is 1.7 cm (11/16 of an inch) and the over </b></i><br />
<i><b>all length including the </b></i><i><b>spur/nectary is 3 cm (1 3/16 of an inch). The sepals are </b></i><br />
<i><b>slightly larger than the petals.]</b></i><br />
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<strong><em>[UPDATE: February 13, 2015... There are four flowers on the </em></strong><br />
<strong><em>plant now. The flowers are small compared to the plant's height;</em></strong><br />
<strong><em>but it is still an impressive Angraecum. Not a showy orchid as the </em></strong><br />
<strong><em>larger types; but once the branches mature it should be a</em></strong><br />
<strong><em>remarkable specimen plant.]</em></strong></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927570948560397977.post-64880641750912071312014-12-31T11:53:00.000-05:002015-01-26T22:26:35.073-05:00Growing Angraecum Orchids Using Semi-Hydroponic Techniques<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<i> "This guest post was written upon my request by Professor Chris Johnson from the University of Utah. Dr. Johnson has a passion like so many of us; orchids. This post addresses his issue regarding the watering of various genera of orchids when he has to travel as much as he does. A fair amount of those orchids being Angraecums. Keep in mind, doing the research and testing with one or two plants in the beginning rather than your entire collection should cut the mortality rate to a minimum. What works for one may not work for another." Tom K</i><br />
<br />
After I found Tom's great Angraecum orchid blog and the related Facebook page, I sent Tom a few questions regarding Angraecum culture and made several posts to his blog. One day I was re-potting some <i>Angraecum magdalenae</i> seedlings to larger pots and I sent Tom a photo (Figure 1) of one of the seedling's root systems growing in semi-hydroponic media. After seeing the photo, Tom thought that other folks growing Angraecums might be interested in learning more about growing them (and other genera) in semi-hydroponics.<br />
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(Figure 1) <i>Angraecum magdalenae</i> root system grown semi-hydroponically</div>
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I started growing orchids the way I suspect most people have. I'd purchase a wonderful orchid at the grocery store; but I was unable to get it to bloom again. I starting reading about orchid culture on websites and in books and figured out that our very dry climate in Salt Lake City was not optimal for most orchids. I decided to purchase an orchidarium, which is basically a Wardian case in which one can control temperature, humidity and air flow. You can purchase (or build) one to suit your orchid needs and budget. My first orchidarium is shown in Figure 2.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lh26F0gvoLU/VKG0qdUtemI/AAAAAAAABec/A_i9sLpYqnQ/s1600/_blog%2Borchidiarium1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lh26F0gvoLU/VKG0qdUtemI/AAAAAAAABec/A_i9sLpYqnQ/s1600/_blog%2Borchidiarium1.jpg" height="494" width="640" /></a></div>
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(Figure 2) First orchidarium containing traditional potted orchids</div>
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As you can see, at this point, all of the orchids are potted in traditional media and plastic pots. After having significant success in growing orchids in my orchidarium, I purchased a second and eventually a third. I proceeded to build a greenhouse to hold my expanding collection of mostly fragrant orchids including Angraecums, Cattleyas, Dendrobiums, Lycastes and Zygopetalums as well as other genera. As my collection grew, I realized that the various orchids had different culutal needs, and in particular, different watering schedules. </div>
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For my job as a Professor of Computer Science and director of a large research institute, I have to travel both nationally and internationally multiple times a year. There was no practical way I could keep up with so many orchids with so many different watering needs given my travel schedule. Fortunately I happened upon an article in the November 2006 American Orchid Society's <i>Orchids</i> magazine titled "<i>No Longer a Killer</i>" by Charles Rhodes ( <i><b>http://firstrays.com/semi-hydroponic-culture/no-longer-a-killer-aos-article-by-charles-rhodes/</b></i> ). </div>
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In the article Charles describes using a technique called semi-hydroponics created by Ray Barkalow; that can be used to grow most genera of orchids. Barkalow developed the technique in part because he had a busy travel schedule similar to mine and needed an easy way to water all of his orchids at the same time. Ray maintains a wonderful website dedicated to using semi-hydroponics to grow orchids (<i><b> http://firstrays.com/semi-hydroponic-culture/general-semi-hydroponics-information/</b></i> ) which I devoured. I then started experimenting with semi-hydroponics myself.</div>
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One main feature of semi-hydroponics is that instead of using an organic potting medium such as bark or sphagnum moss it relies on an inert clay aggregate media called LECA (Lightweight Expanded Clay Aggregate). There are various brands of LECA, the most popular being Hydroton and PrimeAgra. The LECA won't decay over time like bark and moss and so provides a stable medium, maintaining a constant supply of moisture with good wicking capability and providing good air flow to the roots. According to the technique, I plant my orchids in plastic pots with one or two quarter inch holes drilled about one inch from the bottom of the pot to provide a water reservoir. I water them by filling up the pot to the top with water then allowing the pots to drain. The frequency of watering is determined by the season, temperature and specific genera of orchid (as with all orchid potting materials).</div>
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(Figure 3) <i>Angcm. magdalenae</i> growing semi-hydroponically </div>
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In Figure 3, <i>Angraecum magdalenae</i> is potted in a plastic pot with PrimeAgra LECA media. A quarter inch hole has been drilled one inch above the bottom of the pot. You will also notice the quarter inch black tubing with a flow valve. All of my orchids are watered (pots filled to the top and allowed to drain) using an automatic watering system shown in Figure 4 (details for a watering system can be found at <i><b>http://firstrays.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=294</b></i> ).</div>
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(Figure 4) Automatic watering system</div>
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I have had a lot of success growing a number of Angraecums in semi-hydroponics as you can see in the photos at the bottom of this post. If you are looking for an easier way to grow Angraecums and other genera, you might want to try semi-hydroponics. Be sure to understand the needs of your orchids and do extensive research regarding this technique.<br />
Once the orchids are well established, they will grow very well. Re-potting is simple due to the fact you can just lift the plant from the old pot, place it in the new container and fill the void with additional LECA. I have orchids growing in small three inch pots all the way up to plants growing in eighteen inch pots using the semi-hydroponics.<br />
One of the most important considerations when moving orchids that have been growing in traditional organic media to semi-hydroponic LECA media is timing. You want to make sure there is new root growth on the plant before transferring it to LECA, as when transitioning an orchid from any type of growing medium to a considerably different type (or even from the same medium if the old has decayed, as the medium properties will be significantly different between old and new). It takes a while for the plant rootss to adapt to the new medium. Here are two good links that describe the process of moving orchids from traditional media to LECA: <i><b>http://interiorwatergardeens.com/cultural_files/hydroponics/a%20simplified%20method.html</b></i> and <i><b>http://firstrays.com/semi-hydroponic-culture/general-semi-hydroponics-information/repotting-into-sh-from-traditional-media/</b></i><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-m6OMmSV6F8I/VKWlRQZT5gI/AAAAAAAABfg/OmKnQWcITvI/s1600/Crest%2BGeorge%2BLongis.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-m6OMmSV6F8I/VKWlRQZT5gI/AAAAAAAABfg/OmKnQWcITvI/s1600/Crest%2BGeorge%2BLongis.jpg" height="200" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Angcm</i>. Crestwood <i>Angcm</i>. Memoria George Kennedy <i>Angcm</i>. Longiscott</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TBDJfhsN5-s/VKL4DQVxxVI/AAAAAAAABfQ/mBmEWeHXc98/s1600/ses%2BLemf%2Bmag.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TBDJfhsN5-s/VKL4DQVxxVI/AAAAAAAABfQ/mBmEWeHXc98/s1600/ses%2BLemf%2Bmag.jpg" height="230" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i> Angcm. sesquipedale</i> <i>Angcm</i>. Lemforde White Beauty <i>Angcm. magdalenae</i></div>
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<i>"Professor Johnson has spent a considerable amount of time doing research as well as experimenting in perfecting this technique for himself. Be sure to follow suit if deciding to try semi-hydroponics with your orchids. I stress again; what works for one grower may not work for you" TomK</i></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927570948560397977.post-17404754489123678212014-11-01T23:33:00.001-04:002014-11-01T23:36:55.945-04:00First Time Bloomers (Part 2)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
This is the second group of "<b><i>First Time Bloomers</i></b>" to be posted. As I said earlier, I will post new Angraecoid plants as they bloom for the first time. On occasions, I may show a comparison of a mature plant to that of a plant in flower for the first time. <br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--eGY6it17aE/VE2ua8rYb4I/AAAAAAAABZ4/tiG_rIWYxo4/s1600/01%2BAngcm%2BMem%2BGeorge%2BKennedy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--eGY6it17aE/VE2ua8rYb4I/AAAAAAAABZ4/tiG_rIWYxo4/s1600/01%2BAngcm%2BMem%2BGeorge%2BKennedy.jpg" height="250" width="640" /> </a>Angraecum Memoria George Kennedy is a hybrid that was registered with the RHS in 1981; the originator was D. Nail. The seed parent is <i>Angcm. eburneum</i> ssp. <i>giryamae</i> while the pollen parent is <i>Angcm. eburneum</i> ssp. <i>comorense</i>. Each sub-species is a variation of <i>Angcm. eburneum</i>. One of the traits that stands out is that of the nectary (spur); it resembles that of the pollen parent; close to a half inch longer than the traditional Angcm. eburneum. Another trait that is dominant in the hybrid is the nonresupinate uppermost lip; about a half inch to three quarters of an inch larger than the seed parent. This is one of four plants that is grown in 100% red lava rock (medium to coarse sized pcs. allowing for fast drainage and plently of room for the root system to develop). It receives a range of bright diffused sun light that measures 2500 FC to 4000 FC year round. The amount of water the plant is given varies depending upon the time of year. Summer watering is every other day and what ever rain it receives late spring through early fall. Once temperatures come down into the upper 70s, water is reduced to every three to four days. <i>Angcm</i>. Memoria George Kennedy doesn't appear to have a dormant period so I fertilize every week throughout the year. I have observed an extremely fast development in the root system where the roots will begin to grow outside of the pot or basket; be sure to prevent those roots from attaching to anything around the plant.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZGfzguJi5zQ/VFWBubDEdXI/AAAAAAAABaY/uIRQR-imGMc/s1600/07%2BAngcm%2Bleonis%2BMadagascar%2B08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZGfzguJi5zQ/VFWBubDEdXI/AAAAAAAABaY/uIRQR-imGMc/s1600/07%2BAngcm%2Bleonis%2BMadagascar%2B08.jpg" height="458" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Angraecum leonis</i>, this individual plant is the Madagascar variety; the other variety is from the Comoros Islands and can be more than double the size (see the post dated February 25, 2013, <i>Angraecum leonis</i> [Size Identifies]). <i>Angcm. leonis</i>, no matter the variety usually will show you when there is a lack of water reaching the plant. When the plant is young, its root system hasn't really reached any length. Leaves that show a sign of wrinkling is a warning that the plant is under stress for lack of water. It is imperative that you watch younger plants for this sign. A strong indication of a healthy root system is the thickness of the leaves; moisture is stored in those leaves where carbohydrates are produced to nourish the plant. The Madagascar variety usually has leaves that are 2 to 3 times thicker. A trait common due to the lack of rain in the region. The Comoros variety receives a large amount of rain and will be more than twice the size as mentioned. As either variety of the plants matures, it will start to produce an aerial root system (in a natural habitat, the root system secures the plant to the branches and limbs and provides more moisture and nutrients).</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sMEHf10B798/VFWSqlOAGpI/AAAAAAAABao/5FjZ_G-iLXs/s1600/02%2BAerangis%2Bdecaryana%2BX%2Bmystacidii.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sMEHf10B798/VFWSqlOAGpI/AAAAAAAABao/5FjZ_G-iLXs/s1600/02%2BAerangis%2Bdecaryana%2BX%2Bmystacidii.jpg" height="440" width="640" /></a></div>
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Aerangis mystacidii X Aerangis decaryana; registered in November, 2012 by Sarah Waddoups (congrats Sarah), the originator was Klinge Orchids. The above images were the first blooms from October 2013. The plant is mounted to a 4 x 6 inch (10x15cm) cork slab. It receives 1,800 - 2,500 FC of medium light daily. It is watered every morning in South Florida's 10 month warm season and very often misted late afternoon if temperatures are in the upper 80s or higher. Watering is cut back to every other day throughout most of December and January. The plant receives fertilizer every week through the warm season and every two weeks during the two cooler months in Winter. </div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927570948560397977.post-71428649438655888862014-09-13T22:59:00.001-04:002014-09-14T03:03:31.120-04:00First Time Bloomers<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
One of the amazing things about being an orchid hobbyist is watching the various plants blooming for the first time. I personally will have up to a half a dozen of the same plant in various types of culture. I will pot in clay and in baskets using different mediums and mount the plants to a selection of materials; keeping records of the growth stages and eventually photographing the first blooms that appear. I am often asked about the size of a plant before it blooms for the first time. That answer varies depending upon the genera and species of the individual plant. This post will show what I have experienced in the last six months with some of the Angraecoids that are in my collection.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-i66n6rHBP0A/VBUfvvWDfUI/AAAAAAAABZI/YlXjd9NE5aY/s1600/51%2BNeobathiea%2Bperrieri%2B01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-i66n6rHBP0A/VBUfvvWDfUI/AAAAAAAABZI/YlXjd9NE5aY/s1600/51%2BNeobathiea%2Bperrieri%2B01.jpg" height="398" width="640" /> </a><i>Neobathiea perrieri, </i>the flower is about 2 inches (5.1cm) high, 1.5 inches (3.9cm) wide and the nectary is 4 inches (10cm) long; the plant is mounted to a small cube of cork that is about 2.5 - 2.75 at its widest. The plant itself is compact and barely reaches 2 inches (5cm) high with leaves that can be 4 inches (10cm) long. Watered every morning and late afternoon when temperatures are above the low eighties (27 degrees C); light is now stronger than 1,500 fc and air movement is steady. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rDaRdKKTDeo/VBUoSSUsgKI/AAAAAAAABZY/W_XkvM0Uoy8/s1600/007%2B1st%2Bblooms%2B2014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rDaRdKKTDeo/VBUoSSUsgKI/AAAAAAAABZY/W_XkvM0Uoy8/s1600/007%2B1st%2Bblooms%2B2014.jpg" height="432" width="640" /> </a><i>Angraecum</i> Longiscott is the Angraecoid that started it all. My first bloomed in the summer 0f 2000. The above plant is one from a batch I obtained from H & R Orchids about two years ago. This plant is nearly 15 inches (38.2cm) tall with the stem reaching 9 inches (23cm) long. The leaves are 8 - 10 inches (20.5-25.5cm) long. Average flower width is 2.5 inches (6.3cm), the vertical measurement is 4.75 inches (7cm), the nectary is 8 inches (20.2cm). The above plant is potted in a 6 inch (15cm) clay pot with a medium to coarse coconut husk material; it is watered every other morning when temps are above the low eighties (28 degrees C) and every third to fourth day when below 80 degrees F (26.5 degrees C) and receives direct sunlight until about 12pm and then the light level drops to about 2,500 fc for the remainder of the day. As long as the flowers are protected from the elements, they can last 5 - 6 weeks. FRAGRANT! </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wPNj3Nnb2qM/VBU7GZPXV2I/AAAAAAAABZo/9Dy9p4msg_4/s1600/13%2BAerangis%2Bmystacidii.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wPNj3Nnb2qM/VBU7GZPXV2I/AAAAAAAABZo/9Dy9p4msg_4/s1600/13%2BAerangis%2Bmystacidii.jpg" height="426" width="640" /> </a><i>Aerangis mystacidii, </i>the image on the left is just now starting to bloom. It is a plant that was a part of a group I obtained two years ago. The image on the right is that of a plant that bloomed a year ago for the first time. Although they were from the same group of seedlings, the first blooming of each plant was a year apart. Each are mounted to a cork slab that is 5 x 3 inches (15x7.6x3cm) in size. These plants are watered daily and when temperatures are 85 degrees F (29.5 degrees C) or above will get watered in mid to late afternoon. They receive about 1,200 - 1,500 fc. These blooms will last about 10 - 14 days. </div>
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<b>As more first time blooms appear, they will be added to this post.</b></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927570948560397977.post-57338886301293232642014-09-07T22:59:00.001-04:002016-06-03T21:29:05.644-04:00The Variations of Angraecum Lemforde White Beauty<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I started growing <i>Angraecum</i> Lemforde White Beauty about seven years ago for the simple fact that I could not get <i>Angcm. magdalenae</i> to bloom. I had no problem getting <i>Angcm. magdalenae</i> to grow or eventually put out basal keikis. I could not get them to bloom. The plant grows in a natural habitat at altitudes of between 4,700 ft. to 6,000 ft. (1,433m-1,830m) and temperatures have nearly a 20 - 25 F (9-11 degrees C) difference during the day compared to night time. It is my opinion through observation and experience that <i>Angcm. magdalenae</i> is not a heat tolerant orchid (it is usually described as an intermediate to cool growing plant).<br />
I chose <i>Angcm</i>. Lemforde White Beauty because the shape of the flower was so similar to that of <i>Angcm. magdalenae</i>. Listed by the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) as the seed parent while <i>Angcm. sesquipedale</i> is listed as the pollen parent. <i>Angcm</i>. Lemforde White Beauty was registered in 1984 and the originator was Lemfoerder Orchids.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FPXHtUCNRUI/VA0db7_ee9I/AAAAAAAABYI/mBYI1xwA8Uk/s1600/AngcmLWB.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="296" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FPXHtUCNRUI/VA0db7_ee9I/AAAAAAAABYI/mBYI1xwA8Uk/s1600/AngcmLWB.jpg" width="640" /> </a>Two entirely different <i>Angcm</i>. Lemforde White Beautys</div>
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Regarding this post, here lies the issue; I photographed what was labeled as <i>Angcm</i>. Lemforde White Beauty at the Miami International Orchid Show this past fall (2013). Due to the flower's shape, I was confused as to what the plant really was. Traits that I had become accustomed to were nowhere to be seen in the flower. My first thought was that the plant had been labeled incorrectly. The structure of the plant itself appeared to be that of <i>Angcm</i>. Lemforde White Beauty. It had closely grown alternating leaves coming from the stem with the bottom third of the stem being thick and bulky. Leaves were seven to nine inches (20-23cm) in length and up to 3 inches (7cm) wide. It was suggested that the plant may have been that of <i>Angcm</i>. Crestwood. That was ruled out because there was no plant structure bearing any resemblance of Crestwood traits an the flower was a very pristine white; absolutely no yellow/green tint in the sepals or the petals (the most notable <i>Angcm</i>. Veitchii trait in the Crestwood hybrid).</div>
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After talking to several people about the difference of the two flowers, I looked into the variations that take place in hybridizing. Once you have a basic understanding of creating a hybrid, the following explanation made the most sense. </div>
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I found an article published in the American Orchid Society (AOS) Bulletin, January 1974 issue written by Fred Hillerman. He clearly states "...Jones and Scully sold seedlings of a cross of <i>Angcm. sesquipedale</i> X <i>Angcm. magdalenae</i>, but I have seen no mention of its flowering." This seedling cross being sold more than fifteen years before <i>Angraecum</i> Lemforde White Beauty was registered. The seedling cross (seedling #1528) was confirmed by Robert Scully as being sold in 1968. He goes on to explain that the seedlings were actually from a flask obtained by Jones and Scully (J&S) from Marcel Lecoufle in 1965. The small seedlings were reflasked from a single bottle to two bottles that were grown out to a salable size and then were sold as a catalog offering in 1968. At the time, Marcel Lecoufle was considered a major link to the world of Angraecoid genera.</div>
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Nearly twenty years had passed since the initial introduction of the unregistered hybrid between <i>Angcm. sesquipedale</i> and <i>Angcm. magdalenae</i>. In 1984, the originator, Lemfoerder Orchids, registers the hybrid <i>Angcm</i> Lemforde White Beauty with the RHS. The parents are officially listed as <i>Angcm. magdalenae</i> as the seed parent crossed with the pollen parent being <i>Angcm. sesquipedale</i> (notice that the parents have been switched from the cross obtained by J&S from Marcel Lecoufle).</div>
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When a grower makes a decision to cross certain plants it is not uncommon that the reason(s) is to increase or decrease the size and shape of the flower, change the color(s) of the flower, lengthen the time the flower will stay in bloom or to change the size and shape of the plant itself as well as other traits. I recently sent an email to Lemfoerder Orchideenzucht hoping that someone could answer one specific question; "...what was the main reason to creating the hybrid <i>Angcm</i>. Lemforde White Beauty?" I received a response almost immediately from Dr. Peter Reuter regarding the creation of the hybrid. He states that the main reason was to decrease the plant size of <i>Angcm. sesquipedale</i>; which was achieved.</div>
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Dr. Reuter also added that the results would be different depending on the quality of plants being used in the hybridizing. As an example switching the pod parent and the seed parent would change the overall results (I'll address this issue in a moment). He also wrote that <i>Angcm. bosseri</i> systematically is the same as <i>Angcm. sesquipedale</i> and was used which produced additional variations. </div>
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In 1986, Fred Hillerman wrote in his book (<i>An Introduction to the Cultivated Angraecoid Orchids of Madagascar</i>, pg. 216); he states that he "...had not yet seen the plant and that it should have been crossed years ago. That it should also avoid the twist problem suffered by Veitchii type crosses. <i>Magdalenae</i> will probably greatly reduce the size of the <i>sesquipedale</i> plant and also result in a larger flower." It is believed that seedlings were available through Angraecum House (Fred Hillerman's business) at the time his book was published. A project he had started a couple of years prior.</div>
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Upon the release of the Angraecum House 1989 price list/catalog, Fred again mentions <i>Angcm. </i>Lemforde White Beauty. Listed on pg. 4 of the price list, "...beat us to the punch here but we think our 'Star of Malagasy' FCC X to the best <i>magdalenae</i> we have will give us a real winner. Our first one has flowered and it;s everything we could have wished for." I have had conversations with Lisa Hillerman (Fred's youngest daughter) and she remembers her dad crossing <i>Angcm. magdalenae</i> with <i>Angcm. sesquipedale</i> and wanting to create a larger <i>magdalenae</i> type flower yet smaller than the <i>sesquipedale</i>. The flower type that I have bloomed now for more than six years.</div>
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What I have tried to do here is to show that several people in different parts of the world were hybridizing <i>Angcm. magdalenae</i> and <i>Angcm. sesquipedale</i> to achieve a specific goal. Each grower according to their own results were successful in their attempts. Imagine hundreds of offspring from a single cross. Not all of those plants will appear similar. Some will carry the traits of the seed parent while others the pollen parent. With a large portion carrying traits of both parents.</div>
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The illustration below should give you a better understanding as to the distribution of the various flower types and the explanation I was looking for regarding the extreme difference in flower types.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_SV9SkQfNT8/VA5cmPBkhDI/AAAAAAAABYg/9nRExT78LFg/s1600/Hybrid%2BTable%2Bcopy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_SV9SkQfNT8/VA5cmPBkhDI/AAAAAAAABYg/9nRExT78LFg/s1600/Hybrid%2BTable%2Bcopy.jpg" width="640" /> </a> </div>
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The white star represents the flower that bloomed in 2008. Flower shape was similar to that of the seed parent and a larger size. The sepals and petals were thick at the base and came to a point with a slight curl. The black star represents the flower from 2013. The flower shape was very close to the pollen parent yet still had a slight curl rather than reflex to the sepals and petals. Looking at the illustration, you can now imagine the room for the various offspring and where that offspring may come from regarding the location on the table and the traits the offspring will carry.</div>
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Switching the seed and pollen parents around may change the traits of some of the individual offspring is considered by some as speculative. There is a lot of room on the table and many of those results would be similar as though they haven't traded ends of the table. One last note, no matter what the seed or the pollen parent is, the hybrid grex name would remain the same.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6-VUj9Un9Os/VE8V7dyZukI/AAAAAAAABaI/Tj_n5W029xA/s1600/magLemForBTY.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="452" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6-VUj9Un9Os/VE8V7dyZukI/AAAAAAAABaI/Tj_n5W029xA/s1600/magLemForBTY.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i><b> [UPDATE Oct. 27, 2014: I recently rec'd several photographs of an Angcm. </b></i><b>Lemforde White Beauty</b><i><b> which bloomed for Dr. Chris Johnson, one of the blog's readers. As can be seen in the image above, the form of the flower resembles traits more familiar with Angcm. magdalenae than Angcm. sesquipedale. Comparing Chris's bloom to mine shows that both plants came from a section of a table closer to Angcm. magdalenae.]</b></i> </div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927570948560397977.post-37066838402544115142014-05-31T18:48:00.000-04:002014-05-31T18:48:12.756-04:00Terra Cotta / Clay Pipes (Burnt Earth)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> About a year ago, I received a message via the tkangraecums page that I have on Facebook. It was from a gentleman that was experimenting with orchids growing on terra cotta/clay pipes; somehow referencing burnt earth somewhere along the line. His name is Edward Brookes and although born in Rhodesia (now Zimbabwe) he resides in Natal, South Africa. </span></span></i><br />
<i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> I am always mounting various orchids on different types of wood, types of rock, materials I may find in a nursery or items I come across in my own yard. The terra cotta pipes sounded interesting so I asked him if he wouldn't mind sharing his results and instructions how to do that just that; grow orchids mounted to a burnt earth (terra cotta) pipe.</span></span></i><br />
<i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> Eddie grows various orchid genera and has no idea as to how many are packed into his bit of Eden. When asked which are his favorite; his prepared response is "the ones in flower at present"! He admits he suffers from acute and chronic orchid mania and has for decades, not remembering when it all started. Retired from the nursing profession (a trauma specialist), he has countless hours to spend with his orchids, his pets, bonsai and bromelaids and mixing up batches of what must be the best potting soil ever. If you were to ask his family about him, their offered response may be "Oh, he;s mad, quite mad".</span></span></i><br />
<i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> I would like to introduce the second resident of South Africa to have an exciting article posted here in the Angraecums blog</span></span></i><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: "Segoe UI"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;"> <span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> This method
of growing orchids is far from being a new concept, having been practiced for
generations in what used to be Burma (now Myanmar), for species of Bulbophyllum
and Dendrobium.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The method is also being
used in Europe with considerable success and great sophistication.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: "Segoe UI"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span></span></span></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AEsrL0_G-zY/U4pZy8hmQZI/AAAAAAAABOc/C6YDiyk4MOQ/s1600/P5270596bbb+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AEsrL0_G-zY/U4pZy8hmQZI/AAAAAAAABOc/C6YDiyk4MOQ/s1600/P5270596bbb+copy.jpg" height="400" width="261" /></a></div>
terra cotta/clay pipe<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /><span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: "Segoe UI"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span></span><span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: "Segoe UI"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Essentially
what one has is a clay pipe, closed at one end and at the other, holes for
wires to enable the pipe to hang up. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
pipe with orchid attached is hung up, filled with water & topped up as
necessary. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In theory, an elegant and simple
method of growing orchids. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
approached a local nursery and they were willing to have samples made for
testing. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The pipes we got were some 20
cm (8 inches) long and 5 cm (2 inches) in diameter. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The potter had etched wavy grooves into the
clay so that it resembled bark, unetched pipes were also made.</span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
</span><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-indent: .5in;">
<span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: "Segoe UI"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;">As with
any new terra cotta pot, thorough soaking is important before the item is
suitable as accommodation for a plant. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The baked clay is remarkably
"Thirsty" and will filch water from the plant at high speed. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In addition, the clay contains a lot of
mineral salts and other additives utilized in the processing for molding. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>None of this will contribute to the
suitability of the container as a plant refuge.</span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
</span><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-indent: .5in;">
<span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: "Segoe UI"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;">I therefore
soaked the new pipes for at least one week - my lazy method being to submerge
them in my fish pond. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My thinking here
was that the water had been thoroughly worked by the aquatic plants and would
likely contain a nutrient or two for the benefit of the orchids. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The now wet and hopefully "Enriched"
pipes were rinsed and wire attached for hanging after the plant was attached.</span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
</span><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-indent: .5in;">
<span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: "Segoe UI"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;">I tried
various methods with the orchids on these pipes, pads of soaked sphagnum. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Coir fiber wrapped around the pipe and
live moss obtained locally from trees in the vicinity. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This moss grows on the trunks and branches of
trees where rain water collects long enough to provide moisture for some time. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is very fine in texture and grows really
rapidly during our rainy summers. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Clearly
it is well able to withstand dry spells as well, since it is widespread and
thus a successful colonizer. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It will
also grow strongly as a lithophyte where rocks receive suitable amounts of
water. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In practice, I found that this
moss dies if kept too wet for long periods.</span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
</span><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-indent: .5in;">
<span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: "Segoe UI"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;">The orchids I
tried on the pipes include miniature Cattleya hybrids, Dendrobium <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">kingianum</i>, Epidendrum <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">polybulbon</i>, Angraecum <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">scottianum</i>, Coelogyne <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">fimbriata</i>, Trias <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">picta</i>. The only failure amongst this gathering was a mini
Cattleya which seemed determined to die no matter what I tried with it.
A, scottianum has prospered on its pipe, with roots rambling happily and growths
hanging freely below. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I tied it quite
low on the pipe, since the species seemed always to strive for the free swinger
lifestyle. E. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">polybulbon</i> has also
been very vigorous, but then it is just like that by nature.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-indent: .5in;">
<span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: "Segoe UI"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;"> </span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-16-q2n112WI/U4padD6oq8I/AAAAAAAABOk/3DVHefGzxhw/s1600/combo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-16-q2n112WI/U4padD6oq8I/AAAAAAAABOk/3DVHefGzxhw/s1600/combo.jpg" height="275" width="400" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: "Segoe UI"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;"> </span>Angraecum <i>scottianum</i> and Coelogyne <i>fimbriata</i><br /><span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: "Segoe UI"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;"></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-indent: .5in;">
<br /></div>
</span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
</span><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-indent: .5in;">
<span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: "Segoe UI"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;">I refill the
pipes when they have dried out - this varies greatly from pipe to pipe, some
remaining wet for a good period, others drying within days. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My tree frogs seem to enjoy siesta in these
pipes, and are most discommoded when I unwittingly drench them as they snooze
down inside the pipes. Fertilizer is applied only to the outside of
the pipes. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I found that leaching and
buildup of salts on the clay surface to be a real problem. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I am sure that drenching with distilled water
or reverse osmosis water would allay this nuisance. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I never pour fertilizer into the pipes,
although this would seem to be a good method. The evaporation and salt build up
on the clay surface would surely result in burned roots.</span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
</span><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-indent: .5in;">
<span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: "Segoe UI"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;">This
technique offers enormous opportunity for further development, larger pipes,
wide oval cross section shape to offer a broad surface, horizontal pipes
closed at both ends with an opening mid-way in the length, ball shapes,
standing instead of hanging pipes - and so on and so on.</span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
</span><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-indent: .5in;">
<span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: "Segoe UI"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;">Thus far I'm pleased
with the results, the wetter pipes for plants needing cool moisture at their
roots, drier pipes for those so disposed. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I have found that sphagnum moss is unnecessary
and even a hindrance to root attachment. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Coir wrapping is suitable, but rots rather too
rapidly. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My live moss has completely
covered the wet pipes, looks great and the orchids thereon seem happy (Trias
and E. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">polybulbon</i>) Den. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">kingianum</i> is very successful and can be
dried out to flower profusely after its rest.</span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
</span><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-indent: .5in;">
<span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: "Segoe UI"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;">Obviously
fertilizer is very important on this form of mount. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I am in favor of variety - organic for
preference, very dilute and being sure that the entire outside of
the pipes are drenched. A problem yet to be encountered; how
to deal with this form of mount when the plant needs a bigger pipe!! <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The roots attach so firmly into all
the etched grooves and grow right around and down inside the pipes. I hand
this dilemma in waiting to the good members who read this article.
Various species of Mystacidium are found naturally in our area and I am
keen to try growing these exquisite orchids on a pipe. Being a protected
species here, I shall have to wait for a legal specimen to be available. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Here again, I hope to inspire a reader to
undertake the project.</span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
</span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">I hope this account will set Angraecum devotees to seeking and creating
all manner of burnt earth vessels and succeeding mightily in cultivating
their piped orchids.</span></span> </span><br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927570948560397977.post-26796434176667175992014-04-17T23:13:00.000-04:002014-04-17T23:14:27.488-04:00Angraecoids of South Africa<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Over the last fourteen years, I have had the opportunity to meet numerous people from all parts of the globe that have a passion for Angraecoids. Meeting some in person and others via the internet. People such as Joyce Stewart, Johan Hermans and Bob Campbell; authors of "<b><i>Angraecoid Orchids, Species from the African Region</i></b>". Sarah Waddoups, the founder and CEO of the Angraecoid Alliance. An organization dedicated to the in-situ and ex-situ conservation of Angraecoid genera. Lisa Hillerman, the youngest daughter of Fred Hillerman, author of "<i><b>An Introduction to the Cultivated Angraecoid Orchids of Madagascar</b></i>"; she has shared so much of her father's knowledge and photographs from his trips to Madagascar in the 1970s. Craig Morell, the horticulturalist from Pinecrest Gardens in Miami, Florida; not only did I spark his interest in Angracoids; but the knowledge I picked up from him is priceless. Alan Koch and Robert Fuchs, respected growers and accredited American Orchid Society (AOS) judges. The list goes on and on.<br />
At this time, I'd like to introduce to my readers, Etienne Bosman (I met Etienne via this blog and the Facebook page). An orchid hobbyist that is very good at what he does and resides in South Africa being surrounded by the Angraecoid genera. The plants that are sought after for culture in our green houses in just about all corners of the world. This guest post will hopefully be the first in a series both he and I will be working on throughout the year. Sharing knowledge of both the natural habitats and cultures from the southern and the northern hemispheres. Please welcome Etienne Bosman.<br />
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"<b><i>And I have thought, that as orchids are universally acknowledged to reank amongst the most singular and most modified forms in the vegetable kingdom, the facts to be presently given might lead some observers to look more curiously into the habitats of our several native species.</i></b>" </div>
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<i> <b>Charles Darwin</b> </i></div>
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<i> </i>And so I did,, looking more curiously into the habitats of our several native species. I must say it did take some time to do just that. Unlike most of the Angraecoid growers around the world; I am fortunate enough to be living in an area that numerous Angraecoids call home.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kyKKLmfx2_U/U04M7Yh0SKI/AAAAAAAABLE/bou0CmXeeCw/s1600/Etienne+BBBBBB.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kyKKLmfx2_U/U04M7Yh0SKI/AAAAAAAABLE/bou0CmXeeCw/s1600/Etienne+BBBBBB.jpg" height="380" width="400" /> </a></div>
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Etienne Bosman</div>
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Just 350 km north from Pretoria in the Limpopo Province, South Africa; lays the Magoebaskloof Pass. One of the great classic passes of Limpopo and one of the most scenic passes in the country. This pass takes you from the High Veld (Escarpment) to the Low Veld traveling in a northeastern direction; descending 446 vertical meters from a summit of 1400 m ASL.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8-hJUEEWa_E/U04O4Pv951I/AAAAAAAABLM/oUx4lN3wd3o/s1600/Magoebaskloof+03+BBBBBB.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8-hJUEEWa_E/U04O4Pv951I/AAAAAAAABLM/oUx4lN3wd3o/s1600/Magoebaskloof+03+BBBBBB.jpg" height="425" width="640" /> </a>Magoebaskloof</div>
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Magoebaskloof is part of the Limpopo Mistbelt forest; and very often, due to thick mist, the indigenous forest will not be readily visible while driving through the pass.Mistbelt forests are confined to higher altitude, soll, southern slopes of mountains. This provides reduced radiation and longer lasting moisture on the forest floor. These aspects combined with the temperate climate provides ideal growing conditions for orchids.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-grZd08oNwx0/U04QMifiVwI/AAAAAAAABLU/Sr-sL5FKEzY/s1600/Magoebaskloof+01+BBBBBB.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-grZd08oNwx0/U04QMifiVwI/AAAAAAAABLU/Sr-sL5FKEzY/s1600/Magoebaskloof+01+BBBBBB.jpg" height="480" width="640" /> </a>Magoebaskloof</div>
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The Limpopo Mistbelt covers a large area with vast geological differences, from the cool escarpment and upper mountain plateau to the warm and humid low veld. The forest's typical landscape is undulating plateau , steep slopes, gullies and valleys comprising a total area of 19204ha (made up of state forests as well as small forest patches of private land owners). Most of the annual rainfall varies from 1800mm at higher altitudes to 600mm at lower altitudes. At altitudes above 1050m where mist is frequent the epiphytes rely on fog and mist which create the high humidity.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-voLyFjEyanQ/U04TnrKTw2I/AAAAAAAABLc/0WzOzgL-hBg/s1600/Georges+Valley+BBBBBB.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-voLyFjEyanQ/U04TnrKTw2I/AAAAAAAABLc/0WzOzgL-hBg/s1600/Georges+Valley+BBBBBB.jpg" height="480" width="640" /> </a>Georges Valley</div>
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My passion for South African orchids started when I befriended Callie and joined the Wolkberg Orchid Society. The Wolkberg Orchid Society was established in 1982, with a mere eleven members. This was the first orchid society ever to be established north of Pretoria. Our society is still rather small only reaching 30 members in the last year or so. A handful, about five, including our president Dr. Sarel Spies (who is a qualified SAOC judge), are indigenous orchid fanatics, explorers and vastly knowledgeable; properties I desire to attain. Our society president regularly encourages us to explore whenever and find whatever we can; which we do on a regular basis. All of us know the easy to access locations that makes it handy to pop and appreciate the plants when in flower. But we prefer the lesser known, and for us it is with great excitement to select a forest patch and go exploring and see what we could find.</div>
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Our club has discovered species that were unknown to occur in our area, also finding new locations of species thought to be rare. In my early days I would point at almost anything and shout "ORCHID!" which would draw laughter and jest; but always quickly followed with educated corrections. It took some time for my eyes to adjust to spotting the orchids I was so eagerly seeking, but I never became discouraged. At one stage my orchid hunting became so obsessed that my insurance company wanted to increase my insurance rates for risky driving. We would be driving and I would spot something in my peripheral vision, I would instantly slam on the brakes with little or no regard to what might be coming up from the rear (they have eyes and can see me braking, can't they?). My partner would always illicit and untrustfully respond, "I'll just be a minute" while fleeing the vehicle with my binoculars and machete; which is always at hand.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-H0qxaYTrJN8/U09JczNK-zI/AAAAAAAABLs/h_0PX9L-E4Q/s1600/Magoebaskloof+02+BBBBBB.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-H0qxaYTrJN8/U09JczNK-zI/AAAAAAAABLs/h_0PX9L-E4Q/s1600/Magoebaskloof+02+BBBBBB.jpg" height="425" width="640" /> </a> Magoebaskloof</div>
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Within a 150km radius in which we live, we have found eighteen Angraecoid species. In the upper mountain plateaus, you can find Angcm.<i> pussilum</i>, Angcm. <i>sacciferum</i>, Angcm. <i>chamaeanthus</i>, Mystacidium <i>gracile</i>, Mystacidium <i>flanaganii</i>, Mystacidium <i>venosum</i>, Mystacidium <i>braybonae</i> and Margelliantha <i>caffa</i>. These can often be spotted by their conspicuous roots; which are more visible than the plant itself. When not in flower, some of the mentioned species can be difficult to differentiate from each other. When found in large numbers together, (or even just a single plant in flower) they still tend to take your breath away. Angraecum <i>conchiferum</i> tends to grow in clumps on the bigger branches. When in flower the tiny flowers hang in mid-air away from the plant with the spurs dangling in the breezes.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-93SjBiLArQw/U09O8s0UkTI/AAAAAAAABL8/2fJXSHPdpOw/s1600/Mystacidium+braybonae+BBBBBB.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-93SjBiLArQw/U09O8s0UkTI/AAAAAAAABL8/2fJXSHPdpOw/s1600/Mystacidium+braybonae+BBBBBB.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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Mystacidium <i>braybonae</i></div>
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In the warmer riverine forests and the more humid low veld, Jumellea <i>walleri</i> can be found high-up in the canopies, often forming huge clumps, more than often growing together with Acampe <i>pachyglossa</i>. At a much lower level you will find Aerangis <i>somalensis</i> and Aerangis <i>mystacidii</i> in deep shade. The distinction between Aerangis <i>somalensis</i> and Aerangis <i>mystacidii</i> is sometimes debated; but they are regarded as two distinct species. Aerangis <i>verdickii</i> grows in hot valleys in exposed conditions that can withstand long periods without rain; to which it has adapted through very fleshy leaves and very thick roots. You will also find Tridactyle<i> tricuspis</i> and Tridactyle <i>bicaudate</i>; Cytorchis <i>arcuate</i> and Cytorchis <i>praetermissa</i>. Cytorchis arcuate often grows lithophytically as well as an epiphyte; it is more widely distributed and more adaptable; but always in subtropical forest patches.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-T21Qb6Iet5M/U1CBrKaaHOI/AAAAAAAABMg/u9euwYn-sNM/s1600/Riverine+Forest+BBBBBB.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-T21Qb6Iet5M/U1CBrKaaHOI/AAAAAAAABMg/u9euwYn-sNM/s1600/Riverine+Forest+BBBBBB.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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Callie Wagenaar</div>
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Lastly, the emblem of the 21st World Orchid Conference held here in South Africa... Angraecum <i>stella</i> <i>africae</i>; which is threatened with extinction in South Africa. Only two locations are known, both in Limpopo, with speculation about more locations making the rounds. It needs serious protection.</div>
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All of the orchids I have mentioned are on the red list. The red list is the brain-work of the Threatened Species Programme of the South African National Biodiversity Institute (SANBI). The Threatened Species Programme is one of the continent's largest collaborative conservation projects to date. South Africa has become the first mega-diverse county to fully assess the status of its "entire" flora.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pt8gA24kcnU/U1CL3ZAd11I/AAAAAAAABMs/YfHNL5HRDmo/s1600/Dr+Sarel+Spies+and+Callie+Wagenaar+BBBBBB.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pt8gA24kcnU/U1CL3ZAd11I/AAAAAAAABMs/YfHNL5HRDmo/s1600/Dr+Sarel+Spies+and+Callie+Wagenaar+BBBBBB.jpg" height="480" width="640" /> </a>Dr. Sarel Spies and Callie Wagenaar investigating a clump of orchids in full sun.</div>
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Over the years we have noticed how locations on private, corporate and state owned properties are getting less and less populated with Angraecoids as well as other orchids due to several serious factors. Over collection by hobbyist growers and poachers, leaving only the top unreachable branches with mature plants. Habitat loss due to irreversible conversion of natural vegetation for infrastructure development, urban cultivation and timber plantations. Invasive alien plants out competing indigenous plant species. Demographic factors like species that are threatened as a result of high risk population dynamics such as small population size, poor breeding success, male-female ratios and changes in species dynamics indicating species that are threatened as a result of disturbances of the natural interactions of native species such as the loss of pollinators.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pywGPY3LskI/U1CPKA79HJI/AAAAAAAABM4/1Li9g4nRoU0/s1600/Aerangis+verdickii+BBBBBB.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pywGPY3LskI/U1CPKA79HJI/AAAAAAAABM4/1Li9g4nRoU0/s1600/Aerangis+verdickii+BBBBBB.jpg" height="400" width="266" /> </a></div>
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Aerangis <i>verdickii </i></div>
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A permit from the Department of Economic Development and the Environment and Tourism offices in the region of concern must be obtained if one wants to collect whole plants or even just a part thereof out of its natural habitat. Another permit must be obtained from the Department of Agriculture if any virgin land (including forests) are to be transformed. As far as I am concerned none of these are enforced adequately due to lack of manpower and just because of the huge task involved in doing so. Some people do hold the opinion that some of the forests are over protected and have lost their vitality; that a large proportion of the trees are just standing there, with no orchid growth and that only the more shade-tolerant species persist and suggests that they need some controlled limited interference to flourish.</div>
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There is some confusion amongst land owners and officials of what "virgin land" is and suggest that the policy must be further refined. This confusion leads to landowners that may become unwilling to collaborate in conservation of indigenous tree species and forest development on their land because of the potential to be constrained in their actions in the future. The only way to protect the indigenous orchids of South Africa (and the world) is through education. Educating the public and landowners, with the hopes of grating conservation-conscious and to protect rare plants on their land. The Botanical Society of South Africa (BotSoc), has championed the cause of wildflower protection and conservation. Through conservationand educational programmes, projects and initiatives via branches around the country.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NLp5t1KDVVY/U1CTtPL9w1I/AAAAAAAABNE/Gc6JVRTbQag/s1600/Angraecum+conchiferum+BBBBBB.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NLp5t1KDVVY/U1CTtPL9w1I/AAAAAAAABNE/Gc6JVRTbQag/s1600/Angraecum+conchiferum+BBBBBB.jpg" height="426" width="640" /> </a>Angraecum <i>conchiferum </i></div>
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Sadly, many people think that the indigenous orchids would look better in there greenhouse than in nature. It has happened various times that we take visitors to the locations of rare plants and six months later; upon a return visit to the same location we would find nothing left. For this reason alone, we are forced to keep these locations a very closely guarded secret. For me personally, there is nothing as beautiful as to observe the indigenous species in their natural habitat. I want to share that thought with fellow orchid lovers.</div>
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Article References:</div>
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* Field Guide to the Orchids of Northern South Africa and Swaziland, by Douglas McMurtry, Lourens</div>
Grobler, Jolisa Grobler and Shane Burns<br />
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* Angraecoid Orchids, Species from the African Region, by Joyce Stewart, Johan Hermans and Bob</div>
Campbell<br />
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* Dr. Coert J. Geldenhuys, Forst Ecologist, Extraordinary Associate Professor in Forest Science at </div>
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Stellenbosch University</div>
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* Dr. Bronwyn Egan, Curator, Larry Leach Herbarium at University of Limpopo</div>
* Dr. Sarel Spies, Wolkberg Orchid Society<br />
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* The South African National Biodiversity Institute (SANBI)</div>
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* The Botanical Society of South Africa (BotSoc)</div>
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* Photographs by Herbert Starker and Etienne Bosman</div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927570948560397977.post-52961889764812110932014-04-07T18:44:00.000-04:002014-04-07T18:48:21.637-04:00Oeniella polystachys<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fbBX2W1Gew0/U0ModL0jwWI/AAAAAAAABKs/uu9zrllCvxA/s1600/13+Oenla+polystachys+03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fbBX2W1Gew0/U0ModL0jwWI/AAAAAAAABKs/uu9zrllCvxA/s1600/13+Oenla+polystachys+03.jpg" height="408" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Oeoniella <i>polystachys</i></span></span></div>
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</span> <span style="color: #333333; line-height: 150%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="font-size: small;">In February of 2013, I added a post dealing with the culture I
use to grow Oeoniella <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">polystachys</i>. Over
the last month and a half, I have received numerous emails from hobbyists and
growers regarding this genus. Some of the questions I fielded dealt with
culture on a more specific level.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Rather
than do an update on the Oeoniella post, I decided to rewrite it and bring it
forward on the blog.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="color: #333333; font-size: 11.5pt; line-height: 150%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="font-size: 11.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"> <span style="color: #333333; line-height: 150%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="font-size: small;">Oeoniella <i>polystachys</i> is one of the few Angraecoids that
inhabits the lowlands of eastern Madagascar itself, as well as all three island
chains surrounding Madagascar: the Comoro Islands west of the northern tip of
Madagascar, the Mascarene Islands to the east of Madagascar, and the Seychelles
Islands to the north and northeast of Madagascar. Oenla. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">polystachys</i> is epiphytic, and grows primarily on trees not much
higher than sea level.</span></span><br />
</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="color: #333333; font-size: 11.5pt; line-height: 150%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="font-size: 11.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="color: #333333; line-height: 150%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="font-size: small;">Sub-tropical/tropical South Florida is a perfect climate for
this species. In northern, cooler climates, it should do well in a warm
greenhouse or grow area.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Oenla. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">polystachys</i> is a robust grower and will
develop year round; it does not have a dormant/rest period.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The plant does well throughout the wet season
(May through September), and can handle the drier season unless temperatures
fall below 45 degrees for several nights.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Here in South Florida, I keep all of my Angraecoids in an open air arbor
and move them indoors if the temperatures stay at or below 45 degrees for three
or four consecutive nights (the extent of the winter season throughout the last
four years in South Florida).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I have
been fortunate that I’ve only moved them in for a three day period in the last
four years.</span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="color: #333333; font-size: 11.5pt; line-height: 150%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="font-size: 11.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: small;">
</span>
</span></span></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 150%; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-align: left; text-indent: 0.5in;">
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="color: #333333; font-size: 11.5pt; line-height: 150%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="font-size: 11.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="color: #333333; line-height: 150%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="font-size: small;">In its natural habitat, Oenla. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">polystachys</i> grows in high humidity and a warm climate.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It can usually be found on trees that allow
more light through due to a thinner canopy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>In culture, I grow my plants mounted to tree fern totems, which gives the
aerial root system the opportunity to grab hold and grow into the mounting
material as the plant gains height. </span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: small;">
</span>
</span></div>
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.5pt; line-height: 150%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><div style="line-height: 150%; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-outline-level: 3; text-indent: 0.5in;">
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="color: #333333; line-height: 150%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="font-size: small;">In culture, I have not seen any plant above twenty inches
(50cm); however, in-situ they can grow as high as twenty four inches
(60cm).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The plant has been known to put
out basal keikeis and start to branch prior to its first blooming. It can become
quite a specimen in just a few years.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Cijmd6vVAHs/U0Mpgvt0s3I/AAAAAAAABK0/J2-j8MGWIqo/s1600/Oeoniella+polystachys+14+diag.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Cijmd6vVAHs/U0Mpgvt0s3I/AAAAAAAABK0/J2-j8MGWIqo/s1600/Oeoniella+polystachys+14+diag.jpg" height="400" width="308" /> </a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Inflorescence and root separation </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; line-height: 150%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
</div>
</span></span></span><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.5pt; line-height: 150%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: small;">
</span>
</span></span></span><div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.5pt; line-height: 150%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span></span></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 150%; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-outline-level: 3; text-indent: 0.5in;">
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.5pt; line-height: 150%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="color: #333333; line-height: 150%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="font-size: small;">As Oenla. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">polystachys</i>
starts to gain height, the aerial root system continues to grow and will develop
roots to within 3 – 6 inches (7.5-10cm) of the crown.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Roots are borne opposite the leaf axils,
usually at each leaf.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The inflorescence
also develops opposite the leaf axil.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Once blooms have waned and the plant continues to grow, roots will then
develop in the same place.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Roots can
start while the inflorescence is in flower.</span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.5pt; line-height: 150%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">
</span><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 150%;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;">The root system at the base of the
plant has been known to drastically slow, if not stop developing completely;
there lies the importance of mounting the plant to a material that will give it
the opportunity to stabilize itself.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>South Florida’s high humidity is not enough moisture; the plants are
watered every morning while temperatures are 75 degrees, and twice a day once
the low to mid 80s arrive (usually early April).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As we go into the summer and early fall
months, the plants are also misted about an hour prior to sunset, allowing just
enough time for the plants to dry off in the warm summer breezes.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.5pt; line-height: 150%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 150%;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>Inflorescences
usually start to develop in late September or early October.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They take about four months to gain length (6
– 10 inches [15-25cm]) and then just a few weeks for the buds to completely
develop prior to opening.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Mature plants
that are well taken care of can produce 4 – 7 inflorescences, each bearing 12 –
16 flowers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>These flowers are heavily
fragrant just after dusk and into the middle of the evening;<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>flower size ranges from slightly under an
inch to <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>a little over an inch and a half
(2-4cm).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The sepals and petals are thin,
pointed and usually have their pointed tips curled slightly in.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.5pt; line-height: 150%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 150%;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;"> <span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"></span>With the active growing season
being year round, I do not drop off the watering cycle unless temperatures fall
below 60 degrees; I will then water every 2 or 3 days instead of every
day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Fertilizer is once every week to
ten days and the fungicide treatment remains every 30 days.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.5pt; line-height: 150%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 150%;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;"> <span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"></span>The amount of light that Onela.
polystachys is given varies slightly during the summer months compared to the
winter months.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>During the summer months,
it receives direct morning sunlight until about 12pm and will then receive
about 25 percent filtered light until late afternoon.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As fall and early winter arrive, the plant
will receive some very late direct sunlight until dusk.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Avoid direct mid-day sun throughout the
year.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I have seen plant leaves burn in
just a few days.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The leaf color should
be a vibrant green, although there can be very little visual difference if the
light is backed off. </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.5pt; line-height: 150%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 150%;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;"> <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>For a beginner hobbyist, Oenla. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">polystachys</i> is an easy Angraecoid to
start growing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As with any orchid
species or hybrid, give the plant it’s requirements and it will grace you with
beautiful blooms every year.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You should
be able to find the plant for sale at many of the orchid shows that take place
throughout the year.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For anyone with
additional questions, leave your questions or comments in the comment section
just below in this post.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.5pt; line-height: 150%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">
</span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="color: black;">
</span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.5pt; line-height: 150%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">
</span></span></span></span></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927570948560397977.post-77004270483306323032014-04-04T23:19:00.002-04:002014-04-04T23:22:45.647-04:00Death by Dehydration<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<![endif]--><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"> One
of the common ways of killing your orchids is not watering them properly; watering
properly takes some time to learn when you’re a beginning hobbyist (as well as
some of us that have the experience to know better).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But what may have happened if you are sure
that you knew what you were doing?<br />
Whether you had your hand in it or there was another circumstance, we all know
orchids die without the right amount of water.<br />
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Two
issues that have come to my attention via the Angraecums blog may shine some
light on the subject.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>An Angcm.
sesquipedale and an Angcm. Crestwood both started dropping their leaves from
the bottom of the stem until the leaf drop eventually reached the crown.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Both plants were mature specimens producing
beautiful flowers on a yearly basis.<br />
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Orchids
and other types of plants will start to show signs of stress when being
dehydrated.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Leaves usually show the
biggest sign; they begin to wrinkle or shrivel, pseudo bulbs will thin out and
not look as plump and stems/canes can begin to bend over and not hold up as
they should.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>These signs point towards
lack of moisture.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Either not enough
water is making it to the root system or there are no longer enough roots to
supply the plant with that moisture.<br />
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Seeing
these signs, many of us will automatically start giving the plant more
water.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>However, what if we see no sign
of improvement in a short period of time and the plant continues to
deteriorate; let’s assume the root system has failed.</span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kRiqneuJ5C4/Uz90KbV_T1I/AAAAAAAABJ8/xXdbMtVc3Qk/s1600/Angcm+sesq+combo+01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kRiqneuJ5C4/Uz90KbV_T1I/AAAAAAAABJ8/xXdbMtVc3Qk/s1600/Angcm+sesq+combo+01.jpg" height="224" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"> Signs of severe root rot Shriveled aerial root </span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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</xml><![endif]--></span><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">I
looked closely at this problem with an Angcm. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">sesquipedale</i> recently and found that the root system was
totally dead.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The vellum material that
covers the actual root had completely disappeared, what material did exist was
barely a shell and much of it was black.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>This black on the vellum material indicated severe root rot.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Somehow, the plant was getting to much water
and was constantly wet even though the potting material allowed for fast
drainage and the pot itself had plenty of openings for good air movement (which
in itself would cause issues if the air around the plant was still).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The bottom line is that the roots were always
very wet and eventually rotted.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Aerial
roots were present but not enough of them to salvage the plant.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Those roots shriveled and did not supply the
plant with the necessary moisture (sort of a catch-22).<br />
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The
second plant I looked was an Angcm. Crestwood.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Leaves were turning yellow and then dropping off starting at the bottom
of the stem.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The plant had been staked
holding it upright; and with the stem as thick as it was, the stake shouldn’t
have been needed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The initial problem
was that wind had toppled the plant breaking the stem completely through just
under the medium in which it was potted.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The severed stem prevented the roots from passing moisture up into the
plant causing a fast and steady dehydration.</span> </span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"> </span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gQMNtxYXOIs/Uz91B7UQ-oI/AAAAAAAABKE/lRyFyBrKDjk/s1600/AngcmCrest+combo+01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gQMNtxYXOIs/Uz91B7UQ-oI/AAAAAAAABKE/lRyFyBrKDjk/s1600/AngcmCrest+combo+01.jpg" height="206" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Last fallen leaves from Angcm. Crestwood</span> <span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Break at bottom of stem</span><br />
<br />
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<![endif]--><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"> Both
of the above issues were caused by damage to the root system.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>By carefully monitoring the watering cycle of
the first plant may have prevented the plant from dehydration.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Protecting large showy plants such as the
Angcm. Crestwood from strong winds would have prevented the plant from being blown
over which caused the break in the stem.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Understanding how plants eventually die will make us better
growers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Growing orchids successfully
means learning how to control all of the variables; and issues with watering
them is just one small piece of a complex puzzle.</span><br />
<br />
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927570948560397977.post-51626038229846269982014-02-05T00:49:00.001-05:002014-02-07T13:20:59.970-05:00Welcome Angraecoid Alliance<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
This month, the <em>Angraecums</em> blog celebrates it's second birthday. Over the last two years it has grown well beyond the culture of growing Angraecoids. The blog has created questions on which the answers build upon the knowledge of a group of genera that has only been touched upon by a handful of experts and dedicated hobbyists until recently. The Angraecoid group includes so many diverse species in widely different genera, from miniature rainforest species to vining plants to robust lithophytes that there is something for every grower to enjoy.<br />
It is a little understood genus and has been slow in gaining popularity with hobbyists worldwide. The Angraecums blog is giving those hobbyists and serious growers information to help grow beautiful plants and to procue phenomenal, mystical blooms we all crave to see. The blog has attracted so many people with that need to become better growers of this unique Angraecoideae genera. I hope to continue adding material and information that will keep this blog fresh, exciting and full of information that will be beneficial to all who read it.<br />
With that all said, it is my pleasure and my honor to introduce Sarah Waddoups; the founder and creator of the Angraecoid Alliance. In coming months, Sarah and I are hoping to form a solid collaboration dealing with Conservation, Education and Research within the Angraecoideae genera. We hope to promote awareness within the plant group, and to improve information sharing, as well as access to growers and vendors who have plants to offer. I would like to welcome Sarah!<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NbJmWiXa_w0/UvHCLGoomdI/AAAAAAAABHA/roRUh65BYmg/s1600/Sarah+Angcm+rutenbergianum+Mt+Ibity+Madagascar+150.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NbJmWiXa_w0/UvHCLGoomdI/AAAAAAAABHA/roRUh65BYmg/s1600/Sarah+Angcm+rutenbergianum+Mt+Ibity+Madagascar+150.jpg" height="451" width="640" /></a></div>
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Sarah Waddoups and Angraecum rut<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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</xml><![endif]--><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">enbergianumon Mt. Ibity, Madagascar, 2013</span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"> Greetings fellow Angraecoid orchid lovers!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"> Hi, my name is Sarah and I'm an Angraecoid addict! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"> I've grown orchids for more than 10 years and Angraecoids are a particular passion. My collection is about 850 plants, of which more than half are Angraecoid species and hybrids. I love the elegance of the flowers with their star-shaped blooms and long spurs. And the fragrance is heavenly.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"> In December of 2013, I spoke about Angraecoid conservation at the International Orchid Conservation Congress' meeting in Isle de la Reunion. And being that close to Madagascar, I couldn't resist. So all told, I spent three weeks of orchid hunting (with my camera) in Isle de la Reunion and Madagascar. While I photographed other orchid genera, you'd be correct to suspect I was really looking for any and all Angraecoids.</span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xl16sjTRzXg/UvHHcvNd7qI/AAAAAAAABHQ/W1oUGqenuiY/s1600/Angraecum+rutenbergianum+150.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xl16sjTRzXg/UvHHcvNd7qI/AAAAAAAABHQ/W1oUGqenuiY/s1600/Angraecum+rutenbergianum+150.jpg" height="393" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">Angraecum rutenbergianum, Madagascar</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"> As you most likely know, the habitat for Angraecoid orchids is threatened in Madagascar and tropical Africa. The more I researched, the bleaker the future seemed. Rather than assume that habitat loss and threats to species could not be reduced, I started to consider possible solutions. As a result, The Angraecoid Alliance was created in 2012. The purpose of the Alliance is to promote conservation in-situ, increase the number of rare species cultivated ex-situ and educate growers and the public alike about the need for conservation.</span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lU4el2MykGc/UvHKdJOcIqI/AAAAAAAABHc/dZVmRWAD6QA/s1600/Angraecum+expansum+Reunion+159.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lU4el2MykGc/UvHKdJOcIqI/AAAAAAAABHc/dZVmRWAD6QA/s1600/Angraecum+expansum+Reunion+159.jpg" height="277" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"> Angraecum expansum, Isle de la Reunion</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"> Ex-situ conservation: Members of the Alliance are actively working to improve and create ex-situ populations of rare and/or threatened species of Angraecoid orchids. Unfortunately, habitat destruction is rampant and ex-situ conservation may be the only way some species will survive. The Alliance's conservation populations are established using plants that are already in cultivation (so no additional plants need to be removed from the remaining populations in-situ). Alliance members donate pollen, set pods on their plants or contribute flasking services to propagate these rare Angraecoids.</span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dULuHqMnOPU/UvHOmarzCPI/AAAAAAAABHo/auYeK41EsKQ/s1600/Angraecum+cucullatum+Reunion+150.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dULuHqMnOPU/UvHOmarzCPI/AAAAAAAABHo/auYeK41EsKQ/s1600/Angraecum+cucullatum+Reunion+150.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">Angraecum cucullatum, Isle de la Reunion </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"> In-situ conservation: The Angraecoid Alliance is also exploring the possibility of creating a free-trade nursery in Madagascar. This is a complicated endeavor that will take some time to establish. The objective is to connect the free-trade nursery with nearby habitat in need of conservation. The nursery and conservation area could provide employment for local people and provide an alternative to "tavy" framing where land is burned for agriculture. Further, the world-wide demand for these orchids could be supplied via seed-grown plants.</span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QI6l-Kf5eSI/UvHPbf318AI/AAAAAAAABHw/AaAcLNZWBqo/s1600/Angraecum+magdalenae+150.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QI6l-Kf5eSI/UvHPbf318AI/AAAAAAAABHw/AaAcLNZWBqo/s1600/Angraecum+magdalenae+150.jpg" height="295" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"> Angraecum magdalenae, Madagascar</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"> New members are always welcome. Annual dues are $10. You can become a member and follow the Angraecoid Alliance's efforts at www.angraecoids.org . </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"> Follow the Alliance's blog at http://angraecoids.blogspot.com/ and like us on facebook at www.facebook.com/www.angraecoids.org . </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"> You can always contact me and the Alliance directly at angraecoids@gmail.com .</span></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927570948560397977.post-25318551360046823672014-01-07T21:39:00.000-05:002014-01-13T15:55:25.943-05:00Angraecum Memoria George Kennedy<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
The seed parent of Angraecum <i>eburneum</i> ssp. <i>giryamae</i> and the pollen parent Angraecum <i>comorense</i> produces Angraecum Memoria George Kennedy. The plant was registered officially in 1981. In my opinion it is one of the easier Angraecum hybrids to grow. With that said, why does it seem I have kept my fingers crossed from the day I received my first plants? These are the first non-miniature Angraecums that I am growing in 100% red lava rock (pieces range in size from 1/2 inch [1.3cm] to 3/4 inch [2cm]. Over the last 6 months, the plants have grown very well with one presently in bloom and the other three starting to spike.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GmFVCIhN6ec/Usy4eWWbhfI/AAAAAAAABBI/_eQ-NRRM8D0/s1600/03+Angcm+George+Kennedy+Roots.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GmFVCIhN6ec/Usy4eWWbhfI/AAAAAAAABBI/_eQ-NRRM8D0/s1600/03+Angcm+George+Kennedy+Roots.jpg" height="243" width="400" /></a></div>
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Angcm. Memoria George Kennedy (new root development)</div>
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The image above shows one of the plant's root systems developing at the base of the plant. The size of the lava rock will give ample drainage, room for air movement and plenty of space for the root system to grow within the pot. I do have one plant in an 8 inch basket with other non organic material as well as the lava rock and the root system on that plants has already grown out through the slats. <i><b>SPECIAL NOTE: I water as often as I can with rain water to wash away the salts that may build up on the coarse lava rock.</b></i><br />
Although both of the parents are a very strong growing epiphytes, mounted plants need plenty of water during the hot months of late spring through early fall. These mounted plants would need to be watered twice a day. Being in shallow pots with a somewhat coarse medium, they are watered once every two days for at least 6 months and that watering is cut back to once every three to four days when temperatures do start to drop into the seventies and even the upper sixties. (read the August 29, 2013 post "LAVA ROCK as a potting medium... PROS and CONS" to see the possible advantages to using the lava rock). </div>
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With the parent Angcm. <i>eburneum</i> ssp. <i>giryamae </i>having a stem that can reach over 3.25 feet (1m) in height and Angcm.<i> comorense </i>barely reaching a height of 12 inches (30cm), Angcm. Memoria George Kennedy should grow to a height between the two. The four plants that I am presently growing have stems that average about 4 inches (10cm) and are blooming for the first time or getting ready to. My thinking or hope at any rate is that they won't grow much taller than 18 inches (45cm).<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N-BW0ohFbAM/Us4S1bnXCEI/AAAAAAAABB4/67ZvqsZD0p4/s1600/04+Angcm+George+Kennedy+Inflorescence+tip.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N-BW0ohFbAM/Us4S1bnXCEI/AAAAAAAABB4/67ZvqsZD0p4/s1600/04+Angcm+George+Kennedy+Inflorescence+tip.jpg" height="340" width="400" /></a></div>
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First sign of developing inflorescence.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GWsxccTEy4E/Us4TfYS7-pI/AAAAAAAABCA/pqCPuXiOKoQ/s1600/02+Angcm+George+Kennedy+Inflorescence.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GWsxccTEy4E/Us4TfYS7-pI/AAAAAAAABCA/pqCPuXiOKoQ/s1600/02+Angcm+George+Kennedy+Inflorescence.jpg" height="280" width="400" /></a></div>
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Six weeks growth.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-G6z0ksTtzoA/Us2z4ku5MfI/AAAAAAAABBo/k8mPKPa7AMQ/s1600/07+Angcm+George+Kennedy+Inflorescence.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-G6z0ksTtzoA/Us2z4ku5MfI/AAAAAAAABBo/k8mPKPa7AMQ/s1600/07+Angcm+George+Kennedy+Inflorescence.jpg" height="203" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></div>
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First time blooming inflorescence with 6 buds.</div>
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Development of the inflorescence took about 5 months to reach a point where the buds did start to appear. I am currently keeping track of the other three plants to confirm these timelines.</div>
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As stated earlier, the potted plants as well as the one in a basket are watered every two days from late April into mid October (6 months with daytime temperatures at 80 degrees or above with three of those months in the low to mid 90s). A balanced fertilizer of 20-20-20 is added to the water once a week. I have not yet added any time release material to the plants. Once every 21 to 28 days I treat the plants with a systemic fungicide; slternating every other month between Thyomil and Dithane45. I spray the entire plant concentrating on the under sides of the leaves and also make sure that the fungicide gets into the pot so that the root system is treated.</div>
Two of the plants receive a couple of hours of direct morning sunlight and then receive 35% spackled light throughout the remainder of the day as do the other two plants (2000 - 3000 fc). They are grown in an open arbor and have a constant cross breeze 24/7. If winter temperatures where to drop below 55 degrees for more than one night, the plants are moved inside or the arbor would be wrapped to protect from the cold. <br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-B9Sdzv_8VTc/Us4afqDxXPI/AAAAAAAABCQ/M_e86GbK8C0/s1600/10+Angcm+George+Kennedy+Bloom.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-B9Sdzv_8VTc/Us4afqDxXPI/AAAAAAAABCQ/M_e86GbK8C0/s1600/10+Angcm+George+Kennedy+Bloom.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></div>
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Angrarecum Memoria George Kennedy</div>
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Please keep in mind that I grow my orchids in the sub-tropical to tropical climate of South Florida. This Angraecum will do well in a intermediate to warm growing greenhouse.</div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927570948560397977.post-31123465380926436842013-11-18T01:24:00.001-05:002013-11-18T01:24:16.852-05:00Growing Aerangis Species & Hybrids<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Over the last thirteen years growing Angraecoids I have learned that when something works well, don't change it. But; I also want to know what my parameters are. Then of course I try to push the envelop by experimenting with different cultures. Giving my presentations to various societies, I usually talk about Angraecoids that are relatively easy to grow for the beginner. Gain some confidence and then start thinking about plants that may take a bit more understanding to grow them into fantastic specimens.<br />
Over the last two years I have posted articles on three Aerangis (Aergs. <em>articulata</em>, Aergs. <em>biloba </em>and Aergs <em>citrata</em>); of which I would consider easy to grow. This post will deal with several species that I consider easier to grow than others. As you will see, the culture of many of these plants can be very similar and some with a wide range of culture parameters/variables. Whether it be a species or a hybrid, cultures can be similar.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lqPlg7BIFw8/UoL6n7u_9SI/AAAAAAAAA9Y/rbb_nQ1iDR0/s1600/Aerangis+Mire+06+FINAL.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lqPlg7BIFw8/UoL6n7u_9SI/AAAAAAAAA9Y/rbb_nQ1iDR0/s400/Aerangis+Mire+06+FINAL.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Image 1 - Aerangis Mire (Aergs. <em>ellisii</em> X Aergs. <em>verdickii</em>)</div>
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First thing that you should keep in mind is the individual plant's natural habitat. Take the time to do a bit of research. Having a basic understanding of the plant's requirements should prevent severe mistakes. Talk to someone who is growing the plant at the present time and pick their brain. Learning about a plant's climate, including annual monthly rainfall totals and seasonal temperatures; what is it growing on and the type of light it receives at various times of the year should put you in the proper place. </div>
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<strong><em>The cultures that I talk about in this post are the cultures I use to grow my Aerangis. I will make comments regarding the cultures that should be considered in cooler/different climates compared to here in South Florida. These should be looked at as guidelines or starting points. What works for me may be different for you.</em></strong></div>
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There are usually about seventy Aerangis species; but it is not uncommon that a plant or two does get reclassified. Plant size can range from a near non-existent stem to a stem that can reach a height of 31 inches (80cm) in cultivation (Aergs. <em>ellisii</em>, the seed parent of Aergs. Mire in Image 1). My present Aerangis collection contains Aergs. <em>hyaloides</em>, a stem that would barely be 1 inch (2cm) to the lengthy Aergs. <em>articulata</em> with a stem that can reach 12 inches (30cm). There are numerous other Aerangis in the collection at various lengths.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ne9KU_FrMGc/Uobx11W_OaI/AAAAAAAAA9o/29POE23lttE/s1600/01+Aerangis+Combo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="196" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ne9KU_FrMGc/Uobx11W_OaI/AAAAAAAAA9o/29POE23lttE/s400/01+Aerangis+Combo.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Image 2 - Aergs. <em>articulata</em>, Aergs. <em>biloba</em> & Aergs. citrata</div>
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All Aerangis as other plants have a wet and a dry season. These seasons may vary in length depending upon location. During the wet season, usually the active growing season, many of these plants will flourish quite rapidly. Aergs. <em>articulata</em>, <em>mystacidii</em>, <em>kotschyana</em>, X <em>primulina</em> and <em>somalensis</em> to name of few of mine will grow considerably fast being exposed to moisture all day and can handle being damp during the evening. Here in South Florida, the rainy season is heavy and the plants take advantage of the large amounts of water. Late spring into early fall, temperatures can be in the upper 80s to mid 90s daily. My mounted Aerangis are watered 2 - 3 times a day and often misted very late in the afternoon. Roots that are attached to the mount as well as the aerial roots will dry out by the air movement that surrounds them (Image 3). They are then watered again with this process being a daily regiment as long as the temperatures stay high and the plant is actively growing.</div>
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This much water can start to cause an issue with fungus. Watch for any brown or black spots on the leaves. When temperatures do begin to drop, plants will still need moisture. The combination of moisture and cooler temps, fungus can rear its ugly head rather quickly. My collection is treated on a monthly basis with a systemic fungicide. I alternate between Thyomil and Dithane 45 every two - three months, keeping a spray bottle of Physan 20 (a topical fungicide) handily available.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uwkQluKm854/Uog8y6qL_II/AAAAAAAAA94/dL2tVNCh0C0/s1600/01+Aerangis+articulata.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uwkQluKm854/Uog8y6qL_II/AAAAAAAAA94/dL2tVNCh0C0/s400/01+Aerangis+articulata.jpg" width="342" /></a></div>
Image 3 - Aerangis <em>articulata</em><br />
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Many of the Aerangis can be grown under lights, although they are usually some of the smaller variety such as Aergs. <em>citrata</em>, <em>decaryana</em>, <em>fastuosa</em>, <em>modesta</em>, <em>mystacidii</em>, <em>hyaloides</em> and <em>luteo-alba var. rhodosticta</em> to name a few. While under lights, these Aerangis should receive about the same amount of water but you must make sure that the root systems are receiving a fair amount of air movement. When seasonal temperatures begin to drop and active growing has slowed down considerably, watering should be cut back. Do not let the plants stay dry for extended lengths of time. If you start seeing wrinkled or withered roots; they are not getting near enough water. Water them at least twice a week.</div>
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For those that are growing them on window sills or on tables next to windows during the colder winter months; have your plants setting in or very near humidity trays. When your home or apartment is being heated during the cold winters of the north, humidity drops much lower than the plant is exposed to in its natural habitat. For small mounted plants, arrange the plants on some sort of a stand so that it is in very close proximity or directly above the tray. Small pots can be set in the tray resting on glass marbles or anything that can keep the pot above the water line. </div>
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As mentioned, the majority of my Aerangis collection is mounted. <strong><em>Some of the larger Aerangis can be grown in pots or baskets as long as a</em></strong> <strong><em>coarse medium is used to allow for fast drainage, good air flow and room for root development</em></strong>. A good sampling of larger plants for potting would include Aergs. <em>articulata, cryptodon, ellisii, fuscata </em>and<em> kotschyana</em>. Because these plants produce somewhat pendulous inflorescence, they can be hung on a slight angle so that the spikes can drop over the edge of the pot and flower freely.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lFEngBWnWEY/Uomn84lu--I/AAAAAAAAA-M/b9TQYzbPSEc/s1600/01+Aerangis+Combo+02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lFEngBWnWEY/Uomn84lu--I/AAAAAAAAA-M/b9TQYzbPSEc/s400/01+Aerangis+Combo+02.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Image 4 - Aergs. <em>decaryana</em> X Aergs. <em>mystacidii</em> & Aergs. <em>mystacidii</em></div>
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Flower shapes of the various Aerangis species that I grow will range in shape from a flock of birds in flight to various star shapes and sizes to unusual fan shapes (Images 2 & 4). Their sizes vary from flowers that are less than a half an inch (8mm) wide by less than a half an inch (8mm) long and a spur that is club shaped and only 1/4 inch (6mm) long [Aergs. <em>hyaloides</em>] to flowers that are up to 2 3/4 inches (7.4cm) wide by 2 3/4 inches (7.4cm) long with a spur that can reach 5 - 6 inches (12.7-13cm) long [Aergs. <em>articulata</em>]. Colors are white while some of them may have delicate hints of green, yellow or pink at the tips of their sepals and petals. Spurs will be white, a very pale green or a very subdued yellowish green.</div>
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These are just a few of the Aerangis species that I am presently growing. As stated earlier, the culture that I am currently using is what works best for me in the South Florida climate. Do the research and ask questions and you will grow these plants successfully. They will become wonderful specimen plants. There will be future posts regarding Aerangis <em>punctata</em> culture as well as a post dealing with the flower shape of Aerangis <em>luteo-alba var. rhodosticta.</em></div>
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<em> </em>Don't hesitate to ask/post questions or comments to the blog!<em></em></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2