Angraecum calceolus

     Angraecum calceolus originates from Madagascar and the surrounding islands.  It can be found extensively at the base of trees and thick brush in humid areas at sea level and to the altitude of about 6,700 feet (2,000m).  The English translation of the name means 'the little shoe'.
     The root system on Angcm. calceolus is very numerous and is heaviest at the base of the plant; however the more mature the plant becomes, it will put out roots from the stem to within about 4 inches (10cm) of the crown.  The stem itself can grow to a height of about 7 1/2 - 12 inches (20-30cm) although the average maximum height in culture doesn't exceed 8 inches (23cm).

Angraecum calceolus' root system



     There can be up to ten leaves on the plant which can reach a length of 6 1/2 - 8 inches (16-20cm).

Angraecum calceolus with additional plants at the base

and in flower on 6 - 18 inch (15-45cm) long wiry inflorescence.

 

     Angcm. calceolus will do well mounted to various slabs and wood as well as potted / baskets of 4 - 5 inches (10-13cm).  They have a tendency to grow like weeds and can become heavy clumped specimens in a short period of time.  New plants will develop at the base and often on the lower sections of the stem.  Angcm. calceolus is considered a compact plant and will do very well in the colder reaches of the northern hemisphere; it should however be kept out of temps of 60 degrees F or lower.  If you see ice forming on a window in the winter, keep the plant away from it. 

     During the warmer late spring into the early fall while temps are warm, water the plants that are potted or in baskets every three days.  Back off the watering to every 5 - 7 days during the cold winter months.  Any plants that are mounted should be watered every day during the warm months and every 3 - 4 days during the winter.  When watering both the mounted plants and those in containers, be sure to water the potting material, mounted material or bare roots only.  Try not to get excess water on the leaves.  Too much water sitting up against the stem can and will cause stem rot.  Fertilize every 7 days summer and winter.  Use a systemic fungicide every 30 days and a topical for minors issues when needed.  Be sure to spray the entire plant then; especially the bottoms of the leaves.

 

Angraecum calceolus

 

     The average inflorescence is usually about 12 inches (30cm) long and has reached a length of 18 inches (45cm) on several occasions.  There can be 1 - 3 branches on the inflorescence that are 4 - 6 inches (10-15cm).  The number of flowers will range from 4 -6 on a less mature plant with up to fifteen flowers on a mature specimen.  The peduncle is very stiff and wiry and have blackish bracts every 3/4 - 1 1/4 inches (2-3cm) apart. Flowers are about 1 1/4 inch (3cm) long with a club shaped nectar or spur.  Flowers are of a green tint.

     The flowers of Angcm. calceolus do not open in any one direction.  Because of their small make up on being borne on such a wiry platform, it is not unusual to see about 10% of them self pollinate.  They may not be the showiest Angraecums you can own; but they do grow quickly and have a very unusual flower.  Keep in mind that they take up very little room.

 

Angraecum calceolus with ants and aphids

 

     Up until recently, the only pest issue I've had to deal with was aphids.  As you can see in the image above, an ant is farming the aphids.  It collects the waste from the aphids to use as fertilizer for their own food source.  Using a mild insecticide will eliminate and prevent this problem from occurring.

 

Angraecum calceolus





Angraecum eburneum ssp. giryamae

                During the early part of my presentation regarding the Angraecum Alliance, I stress the fact that many of the alliance do not do well in the blooming department if the roots are bothered or disturbed too much.  In other words, they become somewhat dormant when it comes to blooming for as long as and up to five years.  You will see this mentioned in various posts throughout the blog.  This particular post is going to address that probability in depth dealing with an Angraecum eburneum along with the culture demands of this species.

                Angraecum eburneum ssp. giryamae or Angraecum giryamae (the specific species in this post) as it is now classified as well as two other sub-species of Angcm. giryamae hail from various locations such as Madagascar, the Mascarene Islands, the Comoro Islands and East Africa; their origination depending upon the species.  They are all considered sub-tropical to tropical growers and grow in fairly moist areas as epiphytes and occasionally as lithophytes and semi-terrestrial plants.  Exception to this is Angcm. eburneum spp.  xerophilum grows in the semi-arid to arid areas of Southern Madagascar where there is a 3 – 5 month dry or dormant period during the winter months in the Southern Hemisphere (this species is discussed indirectly as one of the parents in the post “Birth of a Shooting Star”).

                                  Image 01                                      Image 02

 

Several days after giving the Angraecum presentation to one of the South Florida Orchid Societies, I received an email along with a photograph attached showing an un-named Angraecum that had grown so much that it had pushed itself out of the pot.  The plant appeared to be Angcm. giryamae and was in excellent health.  No sign of stress or any severe batches of fungus.  It had very strong leaves of green with numerous secondary plants and a few kiekies (Images #01 $ #02).

The root system was visible (and there were many), most were 3/16 – 5/16 inches (.4 - .6cm) wide.  There was also a substantial number of new roots with green tips almost 3/4 inches (2cm) long.  It is this root system that shouldn’t be disturbed.  I always explain that when potting or placing certain species of Angraecums in baskets; you should use a container that will not need to be changed later.  Let the plant grow into it!  Angraecum giryamae can reach a height of 4 – 6 feet (1.2 – 1.8m); although a plant in culture will very seldom reach a height of over 4 feet (1.2m).

            The instructions given to the plant owner were followed exactly as given.  She had a 12 inch (30cm) square by 6 inch (15cm) deep cedar basket prepared for the transfer of the plant.   The medium was a mixture of charcoal, perlite, tree fern pieces and coconut chunks that were considered to be medium size.  She very carefully used a small hammer and broke the pot up around the plant’s base root system.  She did not pull any of the broken pot pieces off of the roots.  Whatever fell off at the time of breaking the pot is what was thrown away.  Any of the old medium that was still stuck to the root system was left alone.

Image 03

 

The plant was then placed into the cedar basket and the new medium was placed into the basket around the plant.  Then very carefully working the new medium into the voids in and around the plant.  Once the plant was settled into the basket, it was watered and a systemic fungicide was used to treat the plant.  It was placed in the same area receiving the same amount of light and care has it had previously (Image #03).

             During the summer months, the plant was watered about every three days, fertilized once a week and a systemic fungicide is used about every four weeks.  Patience now has the upper hand; will the plant lie dormant or will it bloom?

Images 04

             Late this summer, the plant starting putting out an inflorescence; a very good indication that it would bloom.  Watching it develop and finally seeing the first buds appear gave even a higher degree of hope that the re-potting of the large Angraecum was a success.  As you can see in the following image, the Angraecum giryamae successfully bloomed (Image #04).

             Not every transfer or re-potting of a mature Angraecum will be this successful.  Root systems are used by this genera as any other.  Supply the plant with moisture and stability.  But, the root systems are much more sensitive.  If the roots are disturbed too much, they will become dormant for an unusual amount of time; not blooming and slower growing for several years.  That is why I stress to hobbyists to find out how large the plant will get and then placing that plant into a pot or basket to accommodate the plant as a mature adult.  Keep in mind that the medium must be thoroughly thought about also.  Do not use a mixture of materials that will decompose.  It will cause problems with mold, mildew and funguses that may kill the plant faster than you can treat it.
           
            [The plant in this post belongs to Patt Lindsey; a hobbyist here in South Florida.  She supplied all of the photographs as well as doing the repotting.  Congrats to you Patt.  A job well done!]

Angraecum Crestwood

             Angraecum Crestwood is a multi crossed hybrid.  Starting with an Angcm. sesquipedale and crossing it with an Angcm. eburneum; coming up with Angraecum Veitchii.  Before I finish the hybridizing here, let me remind you that the Angcm. Veitchii had been posted earlier in this blog.  Take the Angcm. Veitchii and cross it with Angraecum sesquipedale again.  You end up with Angraecum Crestwood.

Angraecum Crestwood

 

             One of the odd traits of the Angcm. Veitchii was the fact that the flower always wants to open parallel to the ground.  In other words it wants to face down with the spur/nectary following suit, staying parallel.  That issue is actually called “twisty flower”.  The lip of the Angcm. sesquipedale is pointing down and slightly out while the lip of the Angcm. eburneum is upright appearing as a hood rather than a lip of the flower.  Angcm. Veitchii seems to open on its own terms.  Not following either of the parents traits.
             Cross the Angcm. Veitchii with Angcm. sesquipedale and it now opens with the traits of Angcm. sesquipedale.  The lip is now down and slightly out in the new hybrid Angcm. Crestwood.  It  looks very near an Angcm. sesquipedale; not as large but with the colors nearer the Angcm Veitchii, A white lip, with a slight green throat and white stripe down the center.  While the sepals and petals are slightly green in cast.  The two petals of the Angcm. Crestwood do not retract as much as they do in Angcm. sesquipedale.  The plant has bloomed in late spring through late summer; even into early fall.  The flowers will last up to four weeks if not in severe weather conditions.

Angraecum Crestwood

 

             Regarding culture; Angcm. Crestwood’s family tree contains two of the largest Angraecum plants that exist.  Keeping this in mind, it is best to pot/basket the Angcm. Crestwood in something large enough so that re-potting won’t be necessary every couple of years.  It will not get near as tall as it's lineage does; however it will not be setting on your window sill either.  It can reach in excess of 24 - 30 inches (75 - 90cm) and after five years or so have numerous kekeis or secondary plants from the main.
            Use a large medium of charcoal, aliflore, perlite and some lava rock.  The larger medium will give the plant ample space to grow its roots, plenty of drainage and air to let the root system breath.  In warmer months, water the plant every 2 – 3 days, trying not to get water on the leaves where it could sit in the leaves against the stem eventually causing stem rot.  Once cooler weather arrives, watering can be cut back to every 3 - 4 days.  If you notice any of the exposed root system starting to wrinkle, increase your watering habits.  I fertilize the plants every week year round (because of my sub-tropical climate here in South Florida) with a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer.
             As the plant gains height, aerial roots will start to appear at the base of the plant.  The taller the plant grows more roots can eventually grow.  Do not damage these roots.  As with so many Angraecums, mess with the roots and the plant will go dormant and not flower for several years.
             When using a systemic  fungicide, it is best to spray the entire plant; especially the base or bottom of the leaves.  Make sure to allow the fungicide to reach the root system within  the pot/basket also.  If issues regarding fungus does appear, use a topical fungicide as needed until it is time to use the systemic mixture.
             Angraecum Crestwood does very well with bright, indirect sunlight.  My plants get a fair amount of 50% spackled light a couple hours a day.  The 20 inch (50cm) or so length leaves are broad and can be burned by direct sunlight.
             Angcm. Crestwood can be grown indoors in a large pot sitting on a table near bright light.  Do try and place the plant outdoors during warm weather.  It will appreciate the breeze.  Once temps reach an average night range of 55 degrees or below, it is time to move the plant into warmer surroundings.

Angraecum Veitchii "the first"

     Who was John Seden?  He was a horticulturist working for the Veitch Nurseries in the Southwest part of England in the late 1800s and into the early 1900s.  John was a hybridizer that was responsible for the first Angcraecum Hybrid.  John used Angcm. eburneum (the seed plant) and crossed it with Angcm. sesquipedale (the pollen plant).  On January 10, 1899, Angraecum Veitchii was displayed for the first time and was officially registered with the Royal Horticultural Society as an orchid hybrid that same year.  More than a hundred and ten years later, Angcm. Veitchii is one of the most popular Angcraecum hybrids grown by hobbyists today.
     With the history of the first Angraecum hybrid out of the way, I'll say there is good news, great news and of course I have a bit of bad news.  Bad news first, Angcm. Veitchii will not fit on your standard window sill for those are thinking of growing this plant in your house .  Especially those of you who have a real winter with that cold white stuff called snow and the ice that shows its freezing head.  It will however do well in a large pot (with good drainage and at least 12 inches (30cm) wide and in a north window (medium light) or an east facing window that sees the sun no later than 11am (the plant leaves can burn).

Angraecum Veitchii

     In a green house environment or the warm sub-tropical climate of South Florida, the plant will most likely not slow down in its growth.  Its parents growing period is just about year round and if the plant is being grown in warm sub-tropical weather, it will grow year round also. 

     Both the Angcm. eburneum and the Angcm. sesquipedale do not like their root systems inferred with.  Angcm. Veitchii is the same way.  It is best to put a younger plant (even a seedling) into a pot that can house it as an adult.  I started my Veitchii in a 12 inch (30cm) basket.  I chose the basket to give the root system a better opportunity to breath and air out.  The medium is an even mix of medium to large pieces of charcoal, lava rock with some smaller aliflore, coconut and broken pieces of tree fern fiber.  This mix drains well yet holds enough moisture for the roots to absorb it.

     A mature plant can have a stem of about twenty inches or more.  With the leaves arcing up from the crown, the plant will be close to 26 - 30 inches (65 - 80cm) high.  Leaves are slightly folded length wise, bilobed at the ends and have a very heavy substance about them.  They grow on alternate sides of the stem and can be up to 14 - 20 inches (35 - 50cm) long.  Use a systemic fungicide on the plant at least every 4 weeks.  The leaves of Veitchii can live quite a long time and once you have a fungus mark on any leaf, will will last as long as the leaf survives.  Use a topical fungicide at the sign of any fungus rearing its ugly head. 

     Watering takes place every 2 - 3 days during the warm summer months and is slowly backed off  to every 3 - 5 days when temps start to level off in the mid to upper seventies.  If temps drop below seventy degrees, I will water once a week.  For those of you growing this in your house, water it in your kitchen sink or bath tub and give it ample time to drain out.  You may want to keep it in a pan with some marbles in the bottom to help with humidity.  Humidity is important to the plant.  I fertilize my plants every 7 days, year round!

Angcraecum Veitchii (both sides of plant)

     You'll notice the four inflorescence in the above image on the left.  As the buds develop, they will start to weigh the inflorescence down and become pendant like.  Once the flowers have opened, notice the nectary (spurs) in the image above right, they are all just about parallel to the ground and all you see is the back sides of the flowers (all flowers are facing down).  This is an affliction being caused by the parents.  Angcm. eburneum's lip is up-right (like a hood), the flower twists around, the lip become erect and the spur hangs down.  Angcm. sesquipedale's lip is down and slightly out, yet the spur still hangs down.  Now you have Angcm. Veitchii, its confused, lost and not sure what to do.  The affliction is called "Twisty Flower" and yes, it is a real issue.  This is what we can do to improve the physical look of the flowers.  As the first flower starts to split its sepals to bloom, Put a stake in the pot or basket and attach the inflorescence to the stake.  Once that flower has opened and facing out, the remainder of the flowers will follow suit.  All will open so that we can fully enjoy their beauty.  If the inflorescence is stake prior to the first bud opening, all of the flowers will open facing down.  As old man Ripley would say, "believe it or not"!

Angcm. Veitchii

     Flowers are about 3 1/2 inches (9cm) wide by 3 1/2 - 4 inches (9 - 10cm) long.  The nectary or spur is usually 3 inches (7 - 8cm) long.  The sepals, petals and anther cap will have a greenish tint while lip is white.  They are fragrant at night and can last 6 - 8 weeks, as long as the plant is kept out of the harsh elements of weather.

     Angraecum Veitchii can be a somewhat fast growing plant if given the proper requirements.  It will start to produce basal keikis after the first blooming and then continue producing more keikis as the plant matures.  You will see keikis eventually start appearing up on the stem as well as roots.  If the plant needs to be put into a larger container, it is best to break a few of the slats on a basket and then drop that into a larger basket, adding medium to fill the voids.  If using a clay pot, break the pot at the bottom and let whatever pieces fall off just fall.  Do not attempt to pull any broken parts of the pot off of healthy roots.  The plant can go dormant and not flower for several years.

     Enjoy the post.







New Facebook Page

     I've started a new Facebook Page called Angraecums.  I hope to have it running in conjunction with this blog.  It will eventually give everyone a quicker update to changes and additional posts here at Angraecums.blogspot.com. 
     As I have said early on in the beginning of this blog, I would start to post on other orchid genera in the blog.  I am currently working on several posts that should be up by the end of September.  I will continue to concentrate on Angraecums, these being a very strong passion.

     The Facebook address is www.facebook.com/tkangraecums , click on this link and it should take you directly to the page.  If it doesn't, cut and paste the site to your address bar.  Thank you everyone to date for your participation. 

Angraecum leonis

     Angraecum leonis, "lion like" or the "lion's head".  No matter which version you grow (Madagascar / Comoro Islands); you should have a beautiful specimen plant in about 3 - 4 years.  Angcm. leonis is an easy Angraecum to grow.    

Angraecum leonis (Comoro Islands)

     Angraecum leonis grows in two very distinct areas.  One hails from the northern tip of Madagascar at about sea level.  The plant is the smaller version of the two; growing in an area that is somewhat dry.  The second comes from Comoro Islands.  It is epiphytic growing at an altitude of about 3,000 feet (900 meters) and is in an area with a heavy annual rainfall (the main reason for its larger size).

     The Madagascar version is the smaller of the two.  It will do well in either a sub-tropical climate or a cooler climate that sees cooler to cold winters; as long as the plant is kept in a room with temperatures not dropping below 65 degrees.  It should be very near a north facing window (again watching the temperature range during the winter).  The leaves can burn rather easily; keep it out of any window that will get direct sunlight for more than an hour.  It is very capable of flowering in either a bright or medium shade.

     The flowers are about 1 1/4 - 1 1/2 inches (3-4cm) wide by 1 1/2 - 2 inches (4-5cm) high with a nectary or spur of about 3 inches (8cm) long.  They can last up to 4 weeks, they are fragrant and usually bloom mid April into late May.  Flowers will open with a slightly green cast but turn a pristine white within 2 - 3 days. 

     In either climate, the plant will do well as long as it is watered regularly during warmer months and less during its dry season (winter in the northern hemisphere).  There is little if any stem to the plant with the leaves being 4 - 6 inches (10-15cm) long, sickle shaped and very fleshy.  In culture, this version of Angcm. leonis will very seldom reach a width of more than 8 inches (20cm).

     Angcm. leonis can be mounted to a cork or tree fir slab and also be potted in a 5 inch pot with a medium sized perlite, aliflore, charcoal and tree fern combination.  Remember, back off the watering during the dry period in winter.  The plant will show signs of lack of water if you notice the leaves starting to shrivel or wrinkle; just increase the watering amount and everything should return to normal shortly.





Angraecum leonis (Comoro Islands)

     Unlike the Angcm. leonis from Madagascar, the Comoro Islands version can have a stem of up to 4 inches high (10cm); however you will usually only see that in very mature plants.  Leaves of this larger version can reach 8 1/2 inches (22cm) with an over-all width of the plant being close to 16 inches (40cm).  Leaves are sickle shape but not near as fleshy as the Madagascar version.  Angcm. leonis is exposed to a much heavier rain fall total in the Comoro Islands and does not need to store the moisture.  If the plant is potted, be careful not to over water the roots.  Root rot can develop during the summer months if watered to often.  If the plant is mounted, be sure to water frequently during the summer months to keep the plant hydrated.  Misting in mid-afternoon heat can be very helpful.

     Flowers from the larger version measure 2 1/2 - 3 1/2 inches (6-9cm) wide and are a little higher than 3 inches (8cm) tall.  They will often bloom in succession rather than all at once.  They are very fragrant and can last about 4 weeks if kept out of the stronger weather elements.

     I treat either version of Angcm. leonis with a systemic fungicide every 28 - 30 days.  Fertilizing every 7 - 10 days. 

     Angraecum leonis will appear to be a slow grower at first; but once it starts to become a specimen plant it will develop very well.  As with MOST Angraecums, it is best not to mess with the roots or take cuttings to share.  The plant can stop blooming for several years.  If repotting is absolutely necessary, then repot when new roots are starting to grow.  This will help the plant re-establish itself quicker.