Welcome Angraecoid Alliance

     This month, the Angraecums blog celebrates it's second birthday.  Over the last two years it has grown well beyond the culture of growing Angraecoids.  The blog has created questions on which the answers build upon the knowledge of a group of genera that has only been touched upon by a handful of experts and dedicated hobbyists until recently.  The Angraecoid group includes so many diverse species in widely different genera, from miniature rainforest species to vining plants to robust lithophytes that there is something for every grower to enjoy.
     It is a little understood genus and has been slow in gaining popularity with hobbyists worldwide.  The Angraecums blog is giving those hobbyists and serious growers information to help grow beautiful plants and to procue phenomenal, mystical blooms we all crave to see.  The blog has attracted so many people with that need to become better growers of this unique Angraecoideae genera.  I hope to continue adding material and information that will keep this blog fresh, exciting and full of information that will be beneficial to all who read it.
     With that all said, it is my pleasure and my honor to introduce Sarah Waddoups; the founder and creator of the Angraecoid Alliance.  In coming months, Sarah and I are hoping to form a solid collaboration dealing with Conservation, Education and Research within the Angraecoideae genera.   We hope to promote awareness within the plant group, and to improve information sharing, as well as access to growers and vendors who have plants to offer. I would like to welcome Sarah!

Sarah Waddoups and Angraecum rutenbergianumon Mt. Ibity, Madagascar, 2013

     Greetings fellow Angraecoid orchid lovers!

     Hi, my name is Sarah and I'm an Angraecoid addict!

     I've grown orchids for more than 10 years and Angraecoids are a particular passion.  My collection is about 850 plants, of which more than half are Angraecoid species and hybrids.  I love the elegance of the flowers with their star-shaped blooms and long spurs.  And the fragrance is heavenly.

     In December of 2013, I spoke about Angraecoid conservation at the International Orchid Conservation Congress' meeting in Isle de la Reunion.  And being that close to Madagascar, I couldn't resist.  So all told, I spent three weeks of orchid hunting (with my camera) in Isle de la Reunion and Madagascar.  While I photographed other orchid genera, you'd be correct to suspect I was really looking for any and all Angraecoids.

Angraecum rutenbergianum, Madagascar

     As you most likely know, the habitat for Angraecoid orchids is threatened in Madagascar and tropical Africa.  The more I researched, the bleaker the future seemed.  Rather than assume that habitat loss and threats to species could not be reduced, I started to consider possible solutions.  As a result, The Angraecoid Alliance was created  in 2012.  The purpose of the Alliance is to promote conservation in-situ, increase the number of rare species cultivated ex-situ and educate growers and the public alike about the need for conservation.

 Angraecum expansum, Isle de la Reunion

     Ex-situ conservation:  Members of the Alliance are actively working to improve and create ex-situ populations of rare and/or threatened species of Angraecoid orchids.  Unfortunately, habitat destruction is rampant and ex-situ conservation may be the only way some species will survive.  The Alliance's conservation populations are established using plants that are already in cultivation (so no additional plants need to be removed from the remaining populations in-situ).  Alliance members donate pollen, set pods on their plants or contribute flasking services to propagate these rare Angraecoids.

Angraecum cucullatum, Isle de la Reunion

     In-situ conservation:  The Angraecoid Alliance is also exploring the possibility of creating a free-trade nursery in Madagascar.  This is a complicated endeavor that will take some time to establish.  The objective is to connect the free-trade nursery with nearby habitat in need of conservation.  The nursery and conservation area could provide employment for local people and provide an alternative to "tavy" framing where land is burned for agriculture.  Further, the world-wide demand for these orchids could be supplied via seed-grown plants.

     Angraecum magdalenae, Madagascar

     New members are always welcome.  Annual dues are $10.  You can become a member and follow the Angraecoid Alliance's efforts at www.angraecoids.org .  

     Follow the Alliance's blog at http://angraecoids.blogspot.com/ and like us on facebook at www.facebook.com/www.angraecoids.org . 

     You can always contact me and the Alliance directly at angraecoids@gmail.com .

Angraecum Memoria George Kennedy

     The seed parent of Angraecum eburneum ssp. giryamae and the pollen parent Angraecum comorense produces Angraecum Memoria George Kennedy.  The plant was registered officially in 1981.  In my opinion it is one of the easier Angraecum hybrids to grow.  With that said, why does it seem I have kept my fingers crossed from the day I received my first plants?  These are the first non-miniature Angraecums that I am growing in 100% red lava rock (pieces range in size from 1/2 inch [1.3cm] to 3/4 inch [2cm].  Over the last 6 months, the plants have grown very well with one presently in bloom and the other three starting to spike.

Angcm. Memoria George Kennedy (new root development)

     The image above shows one of the plant's root systems developing at the base of the plant.  The size of the lava rock will give ample drainage, room for air movement and plenty of space for the root system to grow within the pot.  I do have one plant in an 8 inch basket with other non organic material as well as the lava rock and the root system on that plants has already grown out through the slats.  SPECIAL NOTE: I water as often as I can with rain water to wash away the salts that may build up on the coarse lava rock.
     Although both of the parents are a very strong growing epiphytes, mounted plants need plenty of water during the hot months of late spring through early fall.  These mounted plants would need to be watered twice a day.  Being in shallow pots with a somewhat coarse medium, they are watered once every two days for at least 6 months and that watering is cut back to once every three to four days when temperatures do start to drop into the seventies and even the upper sixties.  (read the August 29, 2013 post "LAVA ROCK as a potting medium... PROS and CONS" to see the possible advantages to using the lava rock).

     With the parent Angcm. eburneum ssp. giryamae having a stem that can reach over 3.25 feet (1m) in height and Angcm. comorense barely reaching a height of 12 inches (30cm), Angcm. Memoria George Kennedy should grow to a height between the two.  The four plants that I am presently growing have stems that average about 4 inches (10cm) and are blooming for the first time or getting ready to.  My thinking or hope at any rate is that they won't grow much taller than 18 inches (45cm).

 First sign of developing inflorescence.

Six weeks growth.

First time blooming inflorescence with 6 buds.

     Development of the inflorescence took about 5 months to reach a point where the buds did start to appear.  I am currently keeping track of the other three plants to confirm these timelines.

     As stated earlier, the potted plants as well as the one in a basket are watered every two days from late April into mid October (6 months with daytime temperatures at 80 degrees or above with three of those months in the low to mid 90s).  A balanced fertilizer of 20-20-20 is added to the water once a week.  I have not yet added any time release material to the plants.  Once every 21 to 28 days I treat the plants with a systemic fungicide; slternating every other month between Thyomil and Dithane45.  I spray the entire plant concentrating on the under sides of the leaves and also make sure that the fungicide gets into the pot so that the root system is treated.

     Two of the plants receive a couple of hours of direct morning sunlight and then receive 35% spackled light throughout the remainder of the day as do the other two plants (2000 - 3000 fc).  They are grown in an open arbor and have a constant cross breeze 24/7.  If winter temperatures where to drop below 55 degrees for more than one night, the plants are moved inside or the arbor would be wrapped to protect from the cold. 

Angrarecum Memoria George Kennedy

     Please keep in mind that I grow my orchids in the sub-tropical to tropical climate of South Florida.  This Angraecum will do well in a intermediate to warm growing greenhouse.

Growing Aerangis Species & Hybrids

     Over the last thirteen years growing Angraecoids I have learned that when something works well, don't change it.  But; I also want to know what my parameters are.  Then of course I try to push the envelop by experimenting with different cultures.  Giving my presentations to various societies, I usually talk about Angraecoids that are relatively easy to grow for the beginner.  Gain some confidence and then start thinking about plants that may take a bit more understanding to grow them into fantastic specimens.
     Over the last two years I have posted articles on three Aerangis (Aergs. articulata, Aergs. biloba and Aergs citrata); of which I would consider easy to grow.  This post will deal with several species that I consider easier to grow than others.  As you will see, the culture of many of these plants can be very similar and some with a wide range of culture parameters/variables.  Whether it be a species or a hybrid, cultures can be similar.

Image 1 - Aerangis Mire (Aergs. ellisii X Aergs. verdickii)

 

     First thing that you should keep in mind is the individual plant's natural habitat.  Take the time to do a bit of research.  Having a basic understanding of the plant's requirements should prevent severe mistakes.  Talk to someone who is growing the plant at the present time and pick their brain.  Learning about a plant's climate, including annual monthly rainfall totals and seasonal temperatures; what is it growing on and the type of light it receives at various times of the year should put you in the proper place. 

     The cultures that I talk about in this post are the cultures I use to grow my Aerangis.  I will make comments regarding the cultures that should be considered in cooler/different climates compared to here in South Florida.  These should be looked at as guidelines or starting points.  What works for me may be different for you.

     There are usually about seventy Aerangis species; but it is not uncommon that a plant or two does get reclassified.  Plant size can range from a near non-existent stem to a stem that can reach a height of 31 inches (80cm) in cultivation (Aergs. ellisii, the seed parent of Aergs. Mire in Image 1).  My present Aerangis collection contains Aergs. hyaloides, a stem that would barely be 1 inch (2cm) to the lengthy Aergs. articulata with a stem that can reach 12 inches (30cm).  There are numerous other Aerangis in the collection at various lengths.

 

 Image 2 - Aergs. articulata, Aergs. biloba & Aergs. citrata

 

     All Aerangis as other plants have a wet and a dry season.  These seasons may vary in length depending upon location.  During the wet season, usually the active growing season, many of these plants will flourish quite rapidly.  Aergs. articulata, mystacidii, kotschyana, X primulina and somalensis to name of few of mine will grow considerably fast being exposed to moisture all day and can handle being damp during the evening.  Here in South Florida, the rainy season is heavy and the plants take advantage of the large amounts of water.  Late spring into early fall, temperatures can be in the upper 80s to mid 90s daily.  My mounted Aerangis are watered 2 - 3 times a day and often misted very late in the afternoon.  Roots that are attached to the mount as well as the aerial roots will dry out by the air movement that surrounds them (Image 3).  They are then watered again with this process being a daily regiment as long as the temperatures stay high and the plant is actively growing.

     This much water can start to cause an issue with fungus.  Watch for any brown or black spots on the leaves.  When temperatures do begin to drop, plants will still need moisture.  The combination of moisture and cooler temps, fungus can rear its ugly head rather quickly.  My collection is treated on a monthly basis with a systemic fungicide.  I alternate between Thyomil and Dithane 45 every two - three months, keeping a spray bottle of Physan 20 (a topical fungicide) handily available.

 

                                                            Image 3 - Aerangis articulata

 

     Many of the Aerangis can be grown under lights, although they are usually some of the smaller variety such as Aergs. citrata, decaryana, fastuosa, modesta, mystacidii, hyaloides and luteo-alba var. rhodosticta to name a few.  While under lights, these Aerangis should receive about the same amount of water but you must make sure that the root systems are receiving a fair amount of air movement.  When seasonal temperatures begin to drop and active growing has slowed down considerably, watering should be cut back.  Do not let the plants stay dry for extended lengths of time.  If you start seeing wrinkled or withered roots; they are not getting near enough water.  Water them at least twice a week.

     For those that are growing them on window sills or on tables next to windows during the colder winter months; have your plants setting in or very near humidity trays.  When your home or apartment is being heated during the cold winters of the north, humidity drops much lower than the plant is exposed to in its natural habitat.  For small mounted plants, arrange the plants on some sort of a stand so that it is in very close proximity or directly above the tray.  Small pots can be set in the tray resting on glass marbles or anything that can keep the pot above the water line.      

      As mentioned, the majority of my Aerangis collection is mounted.  Some of the larger Aerangis can be grown in pots or baskets as long as a coarse medium is used to allow for fast drainage, good air flow and room for root development.  A good sampling of larger plants for potting would include Aergs. articulata, cryptodon, ellisii, fuscata and kotschyana.  Because these plants produce somewhat pendulous inflorescence, they can be hung on a slight angle so that the spikes can drop over the edge of the pot and flower freely.

 

Image 4 - Aergs. decaryana X Aergs. mystacidii & Aergs. mystacidii

 

     Flower shapes of the various Aerangis species that I grow will range in shape from a flock of birds in flight to various star shapes and sizes to unusual fan shapes (Images 2 & 4).  Their sizes vary from flowers that are less than a half an inch (8mm) wide by less than a half an inch (8mm) long and a spur that is club shaped and only 1/4 inch (6mm) long [Aergs. hyaloides] to flowers that are up to 2 3/4 inches (7.4cm) wide by 2 3/4 inches (7.4cm) long with a spur that can reach 5 - 6 inches (12.7-13cm) long [Aergs. articulata].  Colors are white while some of them may have delicate hints of green, yellow or pink at the tips of their sepals and petals.  Spurs will be white, a very pale green or a very subdued yellowish green.

     These are just a few of the Aerangis species that I am presently growing.  As stated earlier, the culture that I am currently using is what works best for me in the South Florida climate.  Do the research and ask questions and you will grow these plants successfully.  They will become wonderful specimen plants.  There will be future posts regarding Aerangis punctata culture as well as a post dealing with the flower shape of Aerangis luteo-alba var. rhodosticta.

     Don't hesitate to ask/post questions or comments to the blog!

      

LAVA ROCK as a potting medium... PROS & CONS

a post by Craig Morell (Pinecrest Gardens) and
Tom Kuligowski (Angraecums.blogspot.com)

 



       Although this page in the blog is dedicated strictly to the culture of various Angraecoids, I though it advantageous to look into the possibility of using lava rock as a potting medium  Most of the Angraecoids I grow are mounted to various hard woods, cork or tree fern material.
       With some very surprising results observed from growing a few other genera of orchids with lava rock; I thought it time to try a couple of my larger hybrids of Angraecums in lava rock as well.  While attending the Redlands Orchid Festival this past spring, I heard of a vendor that was selling Angraecum Memoria George Kennedy.  (The sad part of the story is that I never did find them.)
       I had the opportunity to tour an orchid grower's greenhouses while in Durham, North Carolina to give my Angraecums presentation to the Triangle Orchid Society.  In one of the greenhouses, I spot not one but four Angcm. Memoria George Kennedys; all four were in perfect shape and in six inch clay pots with nothing other than 100% red lava rock.  John Stanton, the owner of Orchid Trail Nursery, told me that he had just repotted the four plants several weeks prior to my visit.  I told him  the story of my search at the Redlands show and the fact that I came up empty.  To make a long story short, about ten days after my visit to North Carolina, I received a box via FedEx containing all four plants.
       As well as the plants had been packed, three of the pots were completely shattered.  Looking on the brighter side of this issue, I did get to inspect the root systems very closely and was amazed as to how much the roots had developed and actually flourished.  Keep in mind though that the plants are going through their peak growing period during the warm weather season.
       My decision to experiment with lava rock is based on the results I have observed after mounting a Dendrobium rigidum to a large piece of red lava rock.  This particular species is known to be a slow grower; but I was told to mount it to red lava rock; that Den. rigidum would take advantage of the iron content as well as the other minerals within the rock.  The plant has tripled in size in just eight months.

 

       When growing orchids, we must always keep in mind the sometimes overwhelming variables with which we deal.  Variables include types of fertilizers, pH of the irrigation water, light quality and intensity, as well as other chemicals we use on our orchids.  Of course, the types of media we use as potting materials and use as orchid mounts can make quite a difference.  In this post, lava rock is the medium I will investigate further.

       Information gathered over the last few weeks has given me a better understanding as to what is happening and what can happen when using lava rock.  I have not used anything other than the red type.  A geologist has confirmed that there is an iron content within the rock.  Needing to know what other minerals may be available to plants when exposed to this material was also important to determine the other avenues in which the plants may possibly thrive.

       I find it ironic that the first three minerals listed that are found in red lava rock are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (the three main components represented by the three numbers you find on plant fertilizers' containers).  Other minerals are zinc, iron, copper, magnesium, boron, sulfate, calcium, manganese and sodium.  The above minerals are not in a form that can be absorbed by the plant.  A plant's root system releases organic acids such as citric acid and oxalic acid.  These acids turn the solid minerals into a form that can be absorbed and used by the plant.  To the average lay person or hobbyist, this lone paragraph would lead us to believe that the minerals contained in red lava rock would give our plants a jump start in their growing patterns.  This can be very true; but as I said earlier, there are "...overwhelming variables with which we deal".

       There are numerous considerations in choosing red lava rock as a potting medium for your orchids.  Depending on where you live, you may not have good access to the medium.  The lava rock should be washed thoroughly before using; it has a LOT of fine dust particles which can affect the orchid roots badly, as well as make a mess underneath the pot or basket after watering.  Irrigation water pH will make a large impact on whether the medium is successful or not.  High pH water (over 8) will eventually lead to calcium buildup on the lava rock, as well as make many of the minerals and metals contained in the lava rock unavailable to the plant.

       Many of the Cymbidium tribe of orchids grows beautifully in lava rock; but the combined weight of the rock and a large plant preclude it from being used as a medium in hanging baskets.  One of the major down-sides to lava rock is that it will hold a lot of water on the center of the pot; especially in pots over 8" in diameter.  Many growers will use an inverted plastic pot in the center of the larger pot to allow extra airspace in the center of the pot when using lava rock to further air and water drainage.

       Various growers report differences in lava rock from year to year; in some cases, orchid roots will turn away from the medium and in other batches of rock, roots will flourish in the rock.  Growers do report that certain genera seem to disfavor the lava rock.  Brassavola seem to shy away from it, as do some terrestrials.  Growers of Aroids (such as Philodendron, Anthurium, Monstera etc.) find lava rock to be an ideal medium and in Hawaii it is the favorite medium for stock plant production of many flowering plants.

       If nothing else other than giving a plant with a fairly thick (velum material) root system; the roots will have a quick drainage when watered and ample space to breath.  My suggestion is to talk to someone that has had experience with lave rock as a medium.  Keep in mid, what works for one may be detrimental to someone else.

       For those of you that are using lava rock now or have in the past; please leave your experiences and thoughts to the matter in the comments section just below this post.  Thank you all! 



Eurychone rothschildiana

       Eurychone rothschildiana was formerly know as Angraecum rothschildiana (still considered the synonym).  The plant originates in Tropical West Africa and east to Uganda and Zaire.  Commonly found near small amounts of moving water and at elevations up to 3900 feet (1200m) in evergreen forests.

Eurychone rothschildiana (1st time with buds)

 

       The plant pictured above is an older seedling that is in bud for the first time.  Having a group of three seedlings, two were mounted to rough cork slabs (average size about 6 x 4 inches (15x10cm) in height and width and one was potted in a three inch (8cm) clay pot.  Those mounted to the cork slabs were laid on a loose and thin layer of moss and covered by small pcs. of coconut tree fiber to protect the outer most roots.  The sole plant that was potted is in a mostly non-organic mix with about a 10% amount of medium coconut pieces.  The entire mix is medium in size for fast drainage letting the root system partially dry after watering.

       Eurychone rothschildiana is a compact plant that will have a short monopodial stem.  Specimen plants will rarely have a stem reaching 4 inches (10cm).  There can be anywhere from 3 to 8 broad egg shaped leaves that are up to 8 inches (20cm) long and 2.8 inches (7cm) wide.  As with all Angraecoids, the leaves are distichously placed along the stem.  They have a leathery substance and range from a medium to dark green.  The roots are .1 to .2 inches (.3-.4cm) thick.

       Depending on the climate in which you are growing Echn. rothschildiana; special attention should be made to the temperatures that the plants are exposed to.  In its natural habitat, the warmest daytime temps average only 81 degrees F (27 degrees C) while in cooler months the average daytime temperature is 71 degrees F (22 degrees C).  This plant should do well in temperate climates within greenhouses that can keep this range along with a relative humidity range of 71% - 84% year round with the higher humidity levels being during the summer months.  Here in sub-tropical South Florida, while plants are grown in open aired greenhouses or arbors, it is important to keep the plants cooler during the extreme warm months of late spring into early fall (almost a six month period of temperatures 10 - 15 degrees F (8 degrees C) higher than that of the plants natural habitat.  This can be accomplished with a constant strong air movement.

 

Echn. rothschildiana

 

       The active growing season can last up to ten months.  Only coming to a rest period during a short winter dry period.  During the active growing season, plants should be watered very regularly.  Mounted plants during the hot summer months up to twice a day; which can help with the humidity levels.  Potted plants should be watered every two to three days as long as the drainage is fast.  You must also be careful not to let water sit in the crown for any length of time.  Giving the root system an opportunity to slightly dry.  During the two month rest period, the plants should be watered enough to keep them from drying completely.

       I use a standard 20-20-20 fertilizer every 7 days during the active growing season while backing off to every three weeks for the two month rest period.  A systemic fungicide such as Thyomil is used to treat the entire plant as well as the root system and is switched to Dithane 45 every third month to prevent a resistance build up.  There is always the possibility of minor issues arising so a quart spray bottle with Physan 20 is kept on hand for spot problems.  Keeping a constant air flow also helps prevent serious problems from developing with fungus.

       The amount of light that Echn. rothschildiana is given ranges from 1000fc - 1800fc.  Both of the mounted plants are in an area that is actually a bit lower.  They receive absolutely NO direct sunlight during any part of the day; in other words they are in what I consider a low Phalaenopsis type of light.

 

Eurychone rothschildiana

 

       Eurychone rothschildiana will bloom here in the northern hemisphere throughout most of the year.  It is most likely to bloom in July and least likely to in the cooler winter months.  Mature plants can bloom at any point though.  The inflorescence is pendant like and will range in length from 1.2 - 3.5 inches (3-9cm) and can carry 3 - 6 flowers.  Mature specimen plants have been know to have as many as a dozen blooms.  The blooms are fragrant and have white to light green sepals and petals with the lip being white edges turning to green and then a dark maroon or brown throat.  The flowers average just under 1.25 inches (3cm) wide by 1 inch (2.5cm) high.  The lip can be 1.1 inches (2.7cm) long by .8 - 1.0 inches (2-2.5cm) wide.  It is very concave and scalloped around its edges.  The spur is narrow in the middle and swells at the tip; its length is .8 - 1.0 inches (2-2.5cm) long.

       As mentioned earlier in this post, Echn. rothschildiana is a compact plant.  Potted or mounted, it will do well in a sub-tropical climate as well as the colder climates in the northern hemisphere.  Be well aware of the fact that it will freeze if placed to close to a window during harsh winters. 

       There is one oddity about this plant you should realize.  It is known to be short lived.  A healthy mature plant can die suddenly without warning.  I have not experienced this issue myself; but have had several discussions with Craig Morell, the horticulturalist at Pinecrest Gardens in Miami, Florida.  He has had several well cared for mature specimens die suddenly for no apparent reason.

       One last note: Eurychone rothschildiana has been crossed with Aerangis and Angraecums to create at least three hybrids to date; Euryangis Victoria Nile, Eurygraecum Lydia and Eurygraecum Walnut Valley.  The last two being created by Fred Hillerman.  







New Plant; Re-Pot NOW!

     When purchasing a new plant, don't let it sit around for any length of time.  Get it out of the pot it is in, change the medium out and watch it hopefully bloom and become a phenomenal specimen.  I do realize there are occasions where you can leave your new orchid in the pot it came in; but understand this, you really have no idea as to how long the plant has been in the present pot (usually plastic), how long it has had shredded packaging material taped to the top of the pot and how moist (saturated) the potting medium is.
     Most growers use bark, coconut pieces or moss when growing their inventory.  As I just mentioned, sometimes it is advantageous to leave things as they are; but there are often times you should change everything as soon as you bring it home with you.  I do not fault any of the growers for their methods of packaging.  Very often, what they do not sell is shipped to the next destination (show) and usually restock what they are short of.  Many of the plants are in plastic and are watered prior to having a packing material (shredded paper) taped to the tops of the pots.  The plants will not dry out that way.  However, keep in mind, bark and coconut are an organic growing medium and will hold moisture very well.  Being in plastic with very little drainage creates the following issue.

 

Angraecum Lemforde White Beauty

 

     I recently purchased an Angraecum Lemforde White Beauty at a local orchid show.  It was in a four inch (10cm) wide plastic pot with minimal drainage (a small opening in the bottom).  The medium appeared to be a fine red bark that looked newly applied and was very clean.  Upon tilting the pot to get the plant out of its container, the red bark material spilled out showing me that it had been just a thin layer covering the actual medium.  After working the pot by squeezing it completely around its circumference, the plant was liberated from its container.

     The first thing I noticed is that the root system was very well developed.  The issue was the medium used was all coconut pieces (holds a large amount of water) and was extremely saturated beyond being moist.  With the poor drainage and abundant amount of water, the root system was starting to show signs of decay.

 

Basal Section of Angcm. Lemforde White Beauty

 

     Organic growing materials break down or decompose.  That same medium when saturated for long periods of time will decompose at a faster rate.  With poor drainage and no air giving the root system an opportunity to slightly dry; there is a better than good chance the roots will begin to rot or start to decay themselves.

     As long as the roots are exposed to the saturated medium, it is only a matter of time before the velum material surrounding the actual root will begin to decay.  Usually the root material will start to turn black or darken drastically.  The image below show several area where this decay has started taking place.

 

Beginning Signs of Root Rot

 

     I removed the original coconut medium and lightly washed the decayed material out of the root system.  As much as I talk about NOT messing with the root systems of most Angraecums due to their sensitivity, I cut away all of the infected root to try and eliminate the rot from spreading.  I treated the entire root system with a topical fungicide (Physan 20) and then placed the plant in a six inch (15cm) wide clay orchid pot (they have the vertical slots cut into them on three or four sides).

    Most of the new potting mix was non-organic such as charcoal, perlite, sponge rock,  1/2 inch (1.3cm) diameter clay pellets and a small amount of tree fern material with about a 10% amount of coconut pieces (to hold a small amount of moisture).

     I did not water the plant for three days, giving it a chance to dry some what.  When I did water the orchid for the first time, I used a systemic fungicide (Thyomil) in the water to give the plant a better opportunity to fight off any further development of root rot.  I am currently keeping a very close eye on my new Angraecum Lemforde White Beauty.  I will give an update to its condition in about three or four months.

     You can check a new plants root stability before purchasing it by using your thumb and forefinger.  Gently grab the base of the plant near the surface of the medium and gently wiggle it.  If the plant does not really move much or at all, the chances are good the the root system is solid.  If the plant moves freely, there is always the possibility that there is an issue with the root system.  It is always in your best interest to re-pot ASAP after purchasing a new orchid.  If there is an issue, don't hesitate to talk the the grower where you got your plant.  If you talk to him in a reasonable amount of time, he will or should make good on the issue.